It was high summer in Portugal. My African skin and soul were in need of sun and heat after a couple of rainy days in Galicia.
My knowledge of Portugal has always been limited to the little I was taught in the history class at school. Bartolomeu Dias and Vasco de Gama and a few Portuguese friends in the neighbourhood was the extent of my knowledge of this remarkable country bordering the North of Spain.
Our first stop in Portugal was at The Abrigo Das Andorinhas (The Shelter of the Swallows), a charming restaurant situated in the historical centre of Vila Nova de Cerveira. The service at the restaurant was professional and the regional food served outstanding.
My persuasive host, also a worldly food connoisseur, suggested that I try my first traditional Portuguese bacalhau (dried cod). Although I am a seafood lover, the salted dried fish on display in some of the food markets did nothing for my taste buds and I was hesitant to try it.
The bacalhau is traditionally served with potato, lots of olive oil and rustic bread. As a side, we also ordered bolinhos de bacalhau (fried fish cake), another Portuguese delicacy, which I did not really like. Of course, a refreshing glass of local wine was added to compliment this fish feast. Although bacalhao is not native to Portugal the Portuguese are passionate about it. The dried fish is imported from Norway and Newfoundland. A popular saying that the Portuguese know 365 ways to cook bacalhau, one for each day of the year, is not far from the truth.
Hunger pains gone and bodies refreshed and we were ready to explore this delightful settlement. Vila Nova de Cerveira, hidden in the Miňho valley, is surrounded by mountains and a lush countryside. The town is a gem with age-old buildings rubbing shoulders with modern-day statues and sculptures. The town’s rich history and culture date back hundreds of years. It was founded in 1321 by King Denis of Portugal who ordered his men to build the Gothic style castle, which today is still the most important and imposing landmark of the town.
Legend has it that the gods of Olympus crowned a deer (cerveira) as king and he, with fellow stags (deers), settled on the banks of the Miňho river, which became known as Terras de Cerveira (land of the stags). Conflict and clashes followed and the only living stag that remained was the king. During a clash with a Spanish nobleman, the latter was killed and the king stag kept the nobleman's banner as a trophy. Today the stag, as well as the banner, are incorporated in their coat of arms and the deer features all over town in statues and curio and art shops.
My love for European churches, monasteries and cathedrals brought us to the 16th-century Baroque style Igreja Matriz,(Church of St Cyprian). The church, in the main plaza of the town, was designed by Verisimo Barbosa. Its immaculate interior decorated with beautiful fresh flowers and mass music in the background soothes a weary traveller.
We were lucky in that the town was a flurry of activity because the townspeople were in the process of preparing for the upcoming Crochet Veste com Arte Festival (Crochet Festival. It offered interesting art and curio shops, sprightly and cheerful street cafes, exquisite crochet work and colourful overhead umbrellas. The festival had turned this utopian town into a flamboyant euphoria for us to soak in.
I stood in awe in front of one of the houses fully covered with crocheting and I wondered how many hours must have gone into such a masterpiece. Every stitch crocheted with love. Every stitch flawlessly positioned in place.
It was with sadness and these words of Chief Seattle in mind that I bid the vila farewell: “Take only memories, leave only footprints.” My footprints lay scattered all over Vila Nova de Cerveira, and my memories are safely stored in my mind.
No comments:
Post a Comment