Jo's Space: A QUEEN FOR A DAY

The nearest I’ve ever been to a real palace was when I was staring through fortified gates hoping to get a fleeting glimpse of one of the British royals. The guards on duty at Buckingham Palace possess little to no sense of humour and an innate lack of emotion. My devious attempts at gaining information from them about the Queen and her family’s whereabouts were all in vain. So when I learned that we were going to visit the Brejoeira Palace in Monçâo, Portugal, I felt a certain vertigo of excitement to revive my fascination with all things royal.

This 19th-century neoclassical style palace, built by Luis Pereira Velha de Moscosa was declared a national monument in 1919 already but only opened its doors to the public in 2010. The walled-in Brejoeira confidently boasting its imposing main gate is a protruding local landmark. The gardens indulge its typical English influence and are always kept in an absolute pristine condition. Eighteen hectares of vineyards, a lake or two, a forest and statues of mythological figures are positioned all over the area.

Unfortunately, visitors are not allowed to take photos once inside the palace. Another disappointment was the absence of an English tour guide. For me and many non-Portuguese or Spanish visitors in our group, it was a bit of a discouragement and undeniably curbs your enthusiasm.

However, in true flair only a palace can deliver, the enormous halls, the impressive staircase, and wooden ceilings are opulently decorated with tapestries, exquisite furniture and imperial decorations accumulated over the years. Walking through the palace I envisaged how the who’s who of Portugal’s famous elite spent their moonlit nights attending a social gathering or gala evening at the palace. I imagined ladies all dressed in satin and silk and men in black tailcoats and white waistcoats with an air of authority and confidence, enjoying the hospitality of the masters and mistresses of the palace. Submerging myself in all the opulence and lavishness around me was rewarding indeed and I was left mesmerised.

The wine has always been cultivated right there on the grounds, but mainly for personal use or was sold to local retail outlets. The Palacio da Brejoeira brand was only launched in 1976 by Mrs. Dona Maria Herminia d’Oliveira Paes, the owner of the palace at the time, who also spearheaded the production of their own wine.

The palace changed hands numerous times since it was built in 1805 and at times has been very neglected, bankrupt and almost ruined. Luckily Councilor Pedro Maria de Fonseca Araujo bought the palace at the start of the century and undertook major restoration of the property.

In 1937 Comendador Francisco d’Oliviera Paes bought the palace for his daughter Maria Herminia d’Oliveira Paes, who occupied it until her death in December 2015 at the age of 93. She was the main driver behind the production of the wine that is distilled on the property until today.

Walking on the red carpet up that beautiful staircase of the Palace Brejoeira I realised something. Even though the palace was never occupied by kings and queens, I felt regal on that glorious day. Like the queen of my own castle. I was ready to explore the rest of the region with my very own king by my side.