A trip that took me 2
months in which I covered approximately 5000 kilometres was nearing its end and I was preparing
for the last part of the first leg of my journey-to-nowhere. Little did I know what role the word leg would play in my life over the next
couple of days.
The distance between Douglas in the Northern Cape and Port
Elizabeth in the Eastern Cape is approximately 760 kilometre and took me through small towns like
Hopetown, Strydenburg, De Aar, Hanover,
Middelburg and the beautiful landscapes near Cradock.
One of the many farm stalls I stopped at
I arrived in Port Elizabeth late on a Friday afternoon and
knew I was ‘home’ the moment I saw the dolosse
(harbour walls) so characteristic of Port Elizabeth. Dolosse
(knuckle bones), were developed in 1963 by an East London Harbour Engineer,
Eric Merrifield, and won him various awards.
Aubrey Kruger, a colleague of Merrifield, later claimed that it was his
design, but he never got any recognition.
A dolos is a concrete block,
geometrically shaped and weighing up to 30 tons. It is now used worldwide to create a barrier
between the land and the ocean.
Ben and Wendy, my hosts for the next two weeks, were expecting
me and I was welcomed into their home with heartfelt joy and love. I could not have asked for a better place to stay
while in Port Elizabeth. Their
hospitality knows no boundaries. I had carte blanche to their fridge, their home and their generosity. Wendy likes to laugh and talk and so do
I. Friends, that allow you to enjoy
your early morning coffee with them on their double bed, while still dressed in
your pj's, are beyond compare. Bennie has a wonderful sense of
humour and an insatiable craving for chocolates. Their beautiful Siamese cat is of course the
centre of attention and a real ‘beauty queen’.
Being naturally gregarious, I could not pass the opportunity to spend time and to have lunch with my ex-boss and ex-colleagues, Steve, Ines, Robyn, Wendy and to chat and catch up with all the other girls and guys I used to work with. That was truly priceless!. It was so good to meet up with old friends like Lourens, but sadly I missed Mona his wife, as she was still at work. Seeing Karen, Hilton, Marinda and Andre as well, made me realise how meagre my life would be without individuals such as these.
My ‘camp’ people did
not disappoint either. Meeting Nenna at her new
workplace brought tears to my eyes. My
hard work of 12 years finally paid off. 2014 started well for most of them as they obtained
jobs at the new developments in the area.
Unemployment is one of the biggest obstacles they have to overcome. Once employed, their self-worth is rebuilt
and the morale, not only their own, but also those around them, becomes so confidently optimistic.
Food for the soul, at its best, is spending an evening in the company of Sandra and sharing a bottle of good wine. It was just what the doctor ordered! Topics
of discussion varied from lost love, the pros and cons of having or not having
a lover and the challenges we have to face as so called senior citizens (not
that she qualifies to be a senior citizen yet). We talked about our failures of the past, the
challenges of the now and the mysteries of our futures.
An afternoon spent in
the company of Ines, my good-looking Italian friend, and her Mom, is sheer joy. Calling me Giovanna, like only an
Italian can, sends shivers down my spine. Ines, like me, is a true Cancerian and we
understand our fluctuating moods all too well. Barefoot, with pizzas to nibble on and glasses
of refreshing pomegranate juice, the minutes turned into hours and before I
knew it night was upon us and it was time for me to leave with sadness yet
again. My ‘Vrienkie’ (little friend) for
life!
Long coastal drives, lingering at familiar places and all-time
favourite spots and discovering new jewels, left my wandering soul in a
mystical state. The enchanted world of
rock and surf at Seaview (the small coastal village I once called home), Maitland, with its seemingly never ending beaches, Kini
Bay’s charisma and allure and the serenity that enfolds Kragga Kamma are all
fascinating impressions that will last me a life-time and bring me back to this
beautiful part of South Africa time and again.
A visit to one of South Africa’s award-winning writers,
Annelie Botes, was like having my cake and eating it too. After an absence of many years she started
writing again in 1994 and has since published more than 50 short stories and
novellas. She has won many awards and is
also a very popular guest speaker.
Another acquaintance in Port Elizabeth is Anet. She and I are still new friends, but in the short time she’s
been in my life, it has been a bundle of cookies and joy. We spent an afternoon in the
beautiful lounge at the Boardwalk (hotel and casino complex), sipping tea and
enjoying delectable sandwiches, with the cacophony of slot machines off in the background. There was much reminiscing and catching up while enjoying the sights. The Boardwalk is a
vibrant symbol of South Africa's emerging modern market economy and the ever-rising standards for architecture and building construction. It is a far cry from the colonial
architecture that can be seen all over Port Elizabeth.
Marinthia and Louis welcomed me into their home, a place where one can find exquisite art, eat fabulous fusion food, experience a sun
that puts sparkle in the morning and a night that starts with a startling
silence. But, their home is also a melting pot of animals. Great Danes, a Weimaraner, a pint-sized cheeky lap-dog, aristocratic Bengal cats, adorable donkeys,
a snow white pony, meerkats (
Suricate, a small mammal belonging to the mongoose family), birds, geese and chickens, to name but a few. Marinthia and Louis truly give real meaning to the word animal-lover. Spending time with Marinthia compares well to
having a dark chocolate Magnum (a gourmet ice-cream) for breakfast. It is always delectably splendid to share some time with her! Making the transition from her being my boss a couple of years back to becoming one of my best friends came easily enough. It is undeniably a friendship I truly treasure.
The morning of my departure came all too soon and waving
Wendy and Bennie goodbye in the early hours of the morning, was not an easy
task. Never did I feel the urge to turn back
so strongly
A quick pit-stop in Joubertina, where a dear friend, Merle
lives, came at the right time.
Joubertina is a small town hidden halfway down the 190 kilometre Langkloof (long gorge) and is overlooked by a mountain peak named Formosa
(1675m), the highest point in the Tsitsikamma mountains. It has majestic tranquillity
written all over it. It somehow reflects
Merle’s calm and humble personality. A
hidden treasure per se!
Little did I know what misery was on its way when I left
Joubertina in the heat of the day. I was
heading for my next stop, Nautilus Bay, when a little discomfort in my knee turned
into an excruciating pain and it seemed like a merciless warning that this leg
of my journey was not going to be a joy-ride.
The route from Port Elizabeth to Nautilus Bay, a coastal reserve with
panoramic sea views, took me through some of the most beautiful parts of South Africa. It was good to see that some areas are still
untouched by mass tourism. I could not
help but stop ever so often to appreciate the fairy tale scenes and to marvel
at the beauty that surrounded me. It was
rainy and foggy when I reached the peak of the Outeniqua pass and the
visibility was poor which gave it an almost supernatural ambience. It was
fascinating to observe the scene as I was descending, leaving the majestic
mountain behind and heading for the coast.
Finally reaching Nautilus Bay, I went directly to the home of Stephanie and Henk. And although I had to
spend the evening on crutches, bandages and painkillers, the time spent with
Stephanie and Henk, was worth all the discomfort. Stephanie’s cuisine, Henk’s wine, the ocean as a backdrop and the stories and laughter in between, brought us to midnight
and way beyond. Unfortunately I had to
cut my visit short, as I knew I was in trouble with my knee, but not before enjoying a most refreshing breakfast, a last view of an azure Indian Ocean and being mesmerized
by the riches of my surroundings.
I was welcomed in Cape Town by my caring kids and family after a
very long and exhausting trip. It was
good to feel Missy’s arms around me, it was good to catch up on all the gossip
of the past weeks, heavenly to sleep in my thirty-year old bed
and to cuddle up with Neara and Shika my pet snakes. My wandering soul and sensual passions will
have to back off for a while. My knee needs a rest and my health has to be my first priority. But, I continue to reassure myself that nothing is permanent and this too shall pass. For the present my trip to Namibia will have to stay on ice. Eish! I look forward to resuming my journey to nowhere.
The word Eish! is used in South Africa to express exasperation or disbelief. The word was first transliterated from the Xhosa language to Afrikaans and then to English. GALLERY
Dolosse
With Bennie
With Wendy
Tessa the pure-bred.
Andre and Marinda
Ines, with her brother and mother
Kite surfer at Maitland
Maitland
Pollock Beach Port Elizabeth
Anet
Marinthia's donkeys
Great Dane
Marinthia feeding the meerkat
Between Joubertina in the Eastern Cape and George in the Western Cape
A wind-farm situated between Jeffreys Bay and Humansdorp
Aerial view Joubertina Photo courtesy of Joubertina Tourism
Farewells are never easy, especially when you are having a good time with friends and family. I left Sasolburg early on a Wednesday morning with two sad faces waving me goodbye. I must admit it took me a couple of kilometers to regain my composure, wipe the tears and concentrate on the road ahead of me. Unfortunately, saying goodbye is the not-so-good part of my journey-to-nowhere.
My journey to nowhere
As I was leaving the Vaal Triangle behind, I realized once again that the hustle and bustle of city life is not for me. I was heading for a small town in the Northern Cape Province where another lifelong friend was waiting for my arrival.
The town is situated 120 km southwest of Kimberley, the capital of the Northern Cape Province. Douglas is a green jewel, situated on the banks of the Orange and Vaal Rivers, midst the dry and parched land of the Northern Cape Province. This is, of course, one of the most arid regions of South Africa.
The town was named after Sir Robert Percy Douglas, a Lieutenant Governor of the Cape Colony. It was founded in 1848 as a mission station by Rev. Isaac Hughes and declared a town in 1867 after an agreement was reached by a group of Europeans.
Glacial pavements and rock engravings dating back 300 million years, can still be found 10 km outside Douglas on the road to Prieska. Diamonds were discovered in the 19th century and the 'diamond rush' brought thousands of diggers to the area. Diggers' houses or "delwershuisies" were a common sight in that time, but today only a few can still be seen.
From the day I left Cape Town I deliberately avoided the popular national roads as much as possible and rather wandered off to the roads less traveled. Unfortunately, these roads are not always in a good condition and, at one point, I really wondered why I do it to myself. Luckily the landscapes, the locals and the stories make up for all the potholes, the trucks and the dust.
These two hills are known as the Tietkoppe (breast hills) and situated 20 kilometers outside Kimberley on the road to Douglas The road to Douglas took me through the Free State Province which is suffering a very severe drought. In small towns like Wesselsbron, Bothaville, Boshoff and Hertzogville heartbreaking stories are told of farmers who already lost all or most of their crops. These are crops that feed a nation. Little did I know at that stage that it was going to rain not long after I left that area.
I stumbled upon a charming little Padstal (farm-stall), Ma-ki-tys, (make yourself at home) which is situated just outside Hertzogville. Farm stalls in South Africa usually consist of a coffee shop or a full-service restaurant and feature homemade baked goods, local wines and fresh farm-grown fruits and vegetables. The moment I walked into Ma-ki-tys I was immediately impressed by the detailed and careful restoration work done to the stall. I was treated like an old friend and it sure felt like home. Mariaan, the daughter of the owner of the farm stall, handed-down valuable information and especially, how the drought has affected the people and the land. In an area where most of the inhabitants are farmers (maize, wheat, sheep and cattle) the weather plays a vital role in their daily existence. This area is deservedly referred to as the bread-basket of South Africa.
The Padstal
The Padstal
Hertzogville was named after South Africa's longest-serving Prime Minister, James Barry Munnik Hertzog and was established in 1915 on the site of the Donkerfontein farm. One of the historical curiosities about the place is that the town could only be built on the condition that no hotel would be allowed in the town site for 100 years.
Although I wanted to spend more time in the company of the friendly Mariaan, my journey had to continue.
I arrived in Douglas hungry, hot and exhausted, but the joyful reunion with dear friends made up for the little discomfort I had on the road.
My KitKat lunch in a car with no aircon and 40C.
Hes and Frik are the kind of friends you definitely want on your list of best friends. Words to describe them, fail me. Hes and I have been friends since primary school days and together we 'conquered' the challenges of life. Now, in the glow of our golden years, we regret our disappointments and failures and we celebrate the victories of the past.
With Hes at The Nose
Hes and Frik at the Nose
With Frikkie
Frikkie
has a wonderful sense of humor and is a bit of a trickster. But he is most definitely a friend through thick and thin.
He is also a 'master' chef and after some bantering he willingly
shared a few of his secret recipes with me such as his famous Marmite Bread which I have
permission to publish on my blog.
Marmite Bread
As I said, Frikkie can be a trickster. He insisted we visit the local delwershuisie, (a digger's small house) situated on the outskirts of Douglas the next morning, as well as pay a visit to the place where the two 'Mommas' (the Vaal and Orange rivers) meet. That morning as we drove off on our outing I was looking forward to seeing the delwershuisieas I do have an interest in buildings dating back hundreds of years. To my surprise Frikkie stopped in front of an impressively large and spacious complex situated on the hectare-sized property with buildings of 5-star status consisting of a mansion, designer horse stables (home to million dollar horses), expensive cars in the driveways and lush landscaped gardens. Taken as a whole, such things spell only one thing: Wealth.!
The only connection between this plush property and a humble delwershuisie is that both structures have occupied the same land and both are part of the history of diamonds in South Africa. In a sense the present structure, a private home, is a sort of delwershuis, but only because of its present owner's involvement in the diamond industry. Of course, taking me there was just Frikkie's way of playing yet another trick on me.
We then traveled to the spot where the two rivers (the Orange and the Vaal) meet. Die Neus (The Nose) as it is colloquially known. Tranquility is written all over this special spot on earth. The guard and caretaker, Izak, has been part of the park for many years and who better to get first hand information from. His knowledge is remarkable and he gave us a 'colorful' description of the floods in 1988 and the trail of destruction it left behind.
Orange River
Vaal River
The confluence
This fertile piece of land, which is home to hundreds of birds and plenty of fresh water fish in both rivers, lush vineyards that grow on the banks of the rivers and an abundant wildlife all around, makes you want to return to Douglas over and over again. Unfortunately this wine lover did not visit the Douglas Wine Cellar, but luckily there was no shortage of this region's wonderful wines at the local liquor stores. I could, of course, not leave Douglas without a red and white Landzicht in the boot of my car.
It was again with sadness that I left my friends behind, but my journey-to-nowhere was far from over.
I have attempted retirement more than once now without success and plan to return to the workplace soon. I promised myself when I'm old and grey and the memory frail I want to share a rocking bench with Hes and Frikkie. We will sip our Landzichts and ponder the past and muse over the days long gone by; those days when we still had our own teeth, no hearing aids or stainless steel walking aides.
FRIKKIE’S MARMITE BREAD RECIPE
YOU WILL NEED:
One batch of ready-made bread dough (it’s readily available in South Africa in supermarkets and food stores and I’m sure most countries have the same, alternatively you can make your own bread dough from scratch) 250ml. Fresh Cream
2 Tablespoons Marmite (I know Marmite is not available in all countries, but I am sure you will find something similar in your stores.)
Form dough into equal size balls and place in buttered cast iron pot. Let is rise till double in size. Mix Marmite and cream and pour over bread rolls. Bake in preheated oven 180C for 45 minutes or until golden brown.
