Thursday 14 March 2024

A WHALE OF A TIME

I was dressed for the occasion and waiting to embark on an exciting adventure. Ready and eager to set sail on a whale and dolphin-watching trip. Raggy Charters, based in Port Elizabeth, has been in operation since 1992, and is one of the oldest Marine Eco tour companies in Africa.

They play a vital role in the conservation as well as the education of our South African marine life. All their boats are SAMSA (South African Maritime Safety Authority) certified and specifically designed for the Eastern Cape Ocean and weather conditions.

This incredible 4-hour experience is set against the stunning backdrop of Southern Africa’s coastal waters.  The trip to St. Croix Island provides enough time to experience the sheer beauty of the marine life in its natural habitat. The ooh’s and aah’s on board were a perfect indication of just how pleasurable the trip was.

Our excitement grew as we ventured into the deep abyss and got closer to the surprisingly acrobatic whales and dolphins.  Their performance in the water was spectacular and it felt as if it was a well-choreographed show playing off in front of our eyes, just for us to see. It felt as if they were seemingly quite aware of our presence. We watched as they breached through the water, dancing to the beat of the waves with the little ones tight at their mother's side; watching and learning. 

Nearly all whales, particularly the humpback, are known for being very protective of their calves. Recent studies have shown that although whales are friendly and come across as being playful or curious towards humans, they will protect their calves at all costs.

We learned about their behavior and migratory patterns, the birth as well as the weaning of their calves, their feeding patterns, and of course the impact climate change and mankind have on their future existence.

The Southern right whales mate and give birth in the warm waters of Algoa Bay during the winter. (June till October)  They spend the summer months in the waters of Antarctica where the food is abundant. The humpback whales also use the Bay from June to December to raise their calves, getting them ready for the long journey to the North. Luckily the Brydes and Minke whales are in the waters of the Bay all year long.

The sheer size, beauty, strength, and force of the whales make one realize just how small and insignificant we are as human beings.

Many of us grew up with the Biblical story of Jonah who was swallowed by a whale and despite the cynicism towards it and the vague evidence; reasons exist to believe that Jonah’s fish tale is a fact, and not at all fiction. Looking at the mere size of these animals, I truly believe that Jonah’s stay inside the whale was not that uncomfortable.

As we approached the rocky St Croix Island, we were greeted by hundreds of African penguins basking in the morning sun. Even though a lot is done to preserve them along with the places where they live from extinction, they are still at risk of becoming extinct. Ship-to-ship fuel transfer and overfishing close to the island are the two main reasons why penguin numbers are on the decline on this island. However, St Croix Island is still home to the largest colony (50% of the world population) in the small world of the African penguin.  

Algoa Bay is also known as the Capital of the Bottlenose dolphins and we were able to closely observe these social creatures as they frolicked in the surf. Although they come across as being friendly and harmless, they are still wild animals and should be left in the wild where they belong. Of course, human activity poses serious threats to these beautiful sea animals. The threats can be ocean pollution, commercial fishing, habitat loss, military activity, and global warming, to name but a few.

Whales and dolphins rely heavily on their sensory ability (echolocation) to navigate themselves throughout the ocean. Sadly manmade sound, like the sound and navigation equipment used by vessels and in particular military boats and submarines is a threat to the future existence of these magnificent sea mammals.

As much as I enjoyed every minute on that boat I cannot help but feel concerned that I may be part of the problem. These whale-watching trips are becoming more and more popular as each day passes. The number of people joining these trips has exploded into the millions worldwide; it will most likely never stop as the estimated value of the industry runs in the billions.

Maybe it is time to rethink the practice of whale watching. At a recent International Marine Claims Conference, it was said that although whale-watching is not as bad as whaling, it may be that last piece that pushes a species over.

“We owe it to our children to be better stewards of the environment. The alternative? A world without whales. It’s too terrible to imagine.”
- Pierce Brosnan



VIDEOS BY THE LOPEZ FAMILY













Friday 22 December 2023

ELEPHANTS ARE NOT FOR ZOOS

Friendship is a wonderful gift and unfortunately, not everyone gets to experience this fully. While we meet many people on our journey through life, only a select few truly leave a lasting impression. Having the opportunity to travel and explore my beloved country with close friends, especially those from abroad, makes friendships even more meaningful and precious.

It is no secret that I love my city (Gqeberha previously known as Port Elizabeth) and although it is not perfect it is the place I call home and where I find peace and solace. Showing off the beauty of Nelson Mandela Bay is always a privilege and honour.

Needless to say, the Addo National Elephant Park is always at the top of the list of every tourist when visiting the Eastern Cape, one of 9 provinces of South Africa.  Addo, derived from the Khoisan language, means ‘poison ravine’ which is a succulent that grows in the area.  

However, today the Spekboom, or Elephant Food as it is known locally, is regarded as a miracle plant and plays a vital role in our ecosystem.  Not only is it a very hardy and drought-resistant plant, but it also grows easily and provides nutrition to many animals in the Park, and in particular enjoyed by the kudu, black rhino, and of course the African elephant. According to the Biodiversity Institute of South Africa (https://www.sanbi.org/), the Spekboom has an excellent ability to absorb carbon from the atmosphere and create its own plant tissue.

Although a day-long trip through the Park is somewhat exhausting it is worth the effort and highly recommended. Not only did we see hundreds of elephants and antelope, but a wide variety of birdlife, the endangered dung beetle, warthogs, zebras, hyenas, buffalo, springbok, and even a white rhino emerged from their naps to grace us with their presence. 

Any lover of wild animals should at least visit Africa once in a lifetime. South Africa with its vibrant natural landscapes is a popular safari destination and offers many malaria-free game parks though preventative prophilaxis is recommended in some areas of the Limpopo province.

Although it is always safer to do a game drive with an experienced or hop-on tour guide, self-drive game drives are very popular in many of South Africa’s parks and give you the freedom to extend your stay if you wish.

Addo Elephant National Park is home to the Big 5, i.e. the lion, leopard, buffalo,  rhinoceros, and of course the African elephant.  Add the Southern Right Whale and The Great White Shark and you get the Big 7.  All of them can be found in the Eastern Cape and in particular Port Elizabeth and Addo Elephant National Park. Since 2000, the conservancy of the Great White Shark as well as the Southern Right Whale formed part of Addo’s ongoing effort to save our endangered animals. Elephants are the largest land animal in the world but sadly their numbers are declining because of the illegal ivory trade. 

What started off in 1931 as a small game reserve of only 2 000 hectares and 11 elephants has now become the third largest park in South Africa with more than 600 free-roaming African elephants on 180 000 hectares of land.   

Sidwell, our knowledgeable tour guide, made sure we had a thrilling game-viewing experience in our search for the Big Five. After a quick shower, a refreshing glass of ice-cold South African wine, and a lovely dinner at our secluded eco-reserved Country Lodge, Hitgeheim, we retired to our rooms. While resting we reflected, and realized once again that the making of a repository of memories is by far the most remarkable human gift. Elephants are a sacred symbol in some religions as they represent loyalty, power, wisdom, and fertility. True to the making of memories…

Indlovu ayilibali  An elephant never forgets. What they don’t tell you is that you never forget an elephant once you’ve looked him in the eye.

 GALLERY


 Photo Credits: The Lopez family from Spain


























Tuesday 28 November 2023

A SYMBOL OF A NATION

Although my visit to the Alhambra Palaces in Granada was a significant highlight of my recent visit to Spain, spending a night of passion, song, and dance in a century-old cave is an experience not to be missed. I was in the company of fellow travelers and gypsy dancers with each their own intriguing story, culture, and visible enjoyment of the expressive waves of movement we witnessed.

While the Flamenco is associated with the Gitanos (gypsies), the origins of this world-famous dance date back as far as 1774.  However, the true start of the Flamenco as it is known today is very vague. What started off as a dance of oppression by migrant workers has evolved into a symbol of a Nation. 

The initial dance was done without any musical instruments in the Sacromonte caves. These caves were originally inhabited by the Gitanos, Jews, and Muslims, who were expelled from the city of Granada, at the time. Spain has been a melting pot of migrants throughout its history and this is evident in the food and language wherever you go.

Workers from India, the Moors, the Jews, the Gitanos, the Greeks, and the Romans all brought musical instruments, song, and dance to this beautiful and diverse country, resulting in the development of the Flamenco dance as we know it today. 

Many of the caves have a restaurant adjacent to the tablaos (a place where they dance) that is exclusively used for the Zambra Gitanas (the Flamenco show). In many instances, the entire family is involved in the business. I could not help but notice a small child clinging to his mother’s beautiful red dress before her performance knowing that one day he would be part of a lineage of performers

I was part of a group that attended the late-night event at the Cueva de la Rocio in the very famous Sacromonte neighbourhood. Probably one of the oldest and most popular tablaos in Granada. It was founded by the Maya family in the 1950s and is still run by them. Dinner was served at 10pm after which the one-hour show followed

Of course, no evening at the de la Rocio starts without carafes filled with ice-cold Sangria served by handsome muscle-toned Gitanos. 

This family-run business caters for tourists from across the globe. Their service in the restaurant as well as during the show was professional and of a very high standard and it comes as no surprise to learn that the Flamenco received A Prestigio Turistico award and was declared a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2010. Many celebrities and state men and women have spent a night in the company of the Maya family. King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia, Michelle Obama, and Bill Clinton to name but a few. 

The music, born of gypsies in the country’s southern regions, was admired by foreigners long before it became a national symbol. The Flamenco is much more than just pulsing dances and foot-stomping; it is poetry, singing, guitar playing, and finger and hand clapping. Castanets, exquisite costumes, mesmerizing choreography, and their colorful ‘pericons’ (fans), which are slightly larger than a normal fan, add to the success of such an event. 

As part of the audience, you can’t help but join in with cheering shouts of  ¡Ole! ¡Ole!, handclapping and foot stomping. One easily gets carried away by the passion of the performers as the music pulsates through the air and the dancers use every muscle in their body and face to perform this passionate and sensual dance.

 I walked out of this electrifying atmosphere into the night with the rhythm of the Spanish guitar still in the background, a song in my heart, a bounce in my step, and maybe one Sangria too many. The worries of the world were forgotten for one night. 

 ¡Ole! ¡Ole! ¡Hasta la próxima de la Rocio!!

GALLERY

 















Saturday 15 July 2023

the death of the red stilettos

 

satin sheets and caviar    

red stilettos and a black lace bra    

an uncompromising narrative

somewhere between the gold and lust

the promises got lost

it left behind

a starving sole

with hopes destroyed and

bravery lost

screaming in falsetto

in the darkness of the night

the red stilettos

once the symbol of elegance

now?  just the pain

 a lonely silhouette standing tall

breathing, weeping upwards in the dark blue sky

a flash of a memory

plunged into darkness

the red stilettos lost their stride

the red stilettos have to die.






Sunday 18 June 2023

A SYMBOL OF SANCTITY

Còrdoba, with its flower-filled patios, graffiti on white-washed walls, intriguing history, and home to ancient Roman poets, philosophers, and flamenco artists was love at first sight for me. A city with the past of its Muslim rulers firmly rooted in the ancient architecture hiding all over town. A city with notoriously late dinners and unique social eating habits like the sobremesa (upon the table) a Spanish tradition of relaxing at the table long after dessert is served. A city with people passionate and knowledgeable about their heritage, language, and culture. A city where the sanctity of humanity is clearly visible, and I was privileged to be part of it for a moment in time.

Córdoba, a city in the south of the Iberian Peninsula in Spain, was once occupied by the Romans, the Jews, the Moors, and the Visigoths and each imprinted a part of their history on this magical city. It was founded by the Romans in the 2nd century and conquered by the Moors in the 8th during which time it rose to its greatest glory of all times.

Hundreds of mosques, palaces, and public buildings were built, and agriculture prospered.  Còrdoba flourished under the reign of Prince Aba al-Rahman who fled from Damascus when his family (the Umayyads) was overthrown. Orange trees, imported by the new rulers, can still be found in the Court of Oranges (courtyard) at the Mosque. In fact, it is considered to be the oldest garden in Europe and dates to the 8th century.

However, during the 13th century, when the Moors were removed from power, Ferdinand the Great, converted the mosque into a Cathedral. Visiting the Mosque-Cathedral or the Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba (in Spanish) is an absolute must and highlight for visitors to Andalucía. It takes us back thousands of years to a time when a sophisticated society existed and is regarded as one of the world’s greatest Islamic buildings ever built. It can be found in the historic center of Còrdoba, near the banks of the river Guadalquivir and is said to be one of the oldest structures built by the Moors that is still standing. Its popularity can be seen in the almost two million visitors every year. The biggest and also the last reconstruction of this impressive building was done in the Renaissance period (1523 – 1599) but it still accommodates both cultures in one structure. Truly an impressive feat and symbolic evidence that humanity can co-exist peacefully.

This Mosque-Cathedral artistic wonder was declared a world cultural heritage site in 1984 which heralds Córdoba the city with the most UNESCO sites in the world. They are (in my personal ranking) The Great Mosque (1984), the Historic Quarter (1994), The Festival of the Patios (2012), and the Medina Azahara (2018). As a UNESCO site lover, I feel honored to have visited 3 of them.

Once inside the Mezquita, I was humbled and overwhelmed by the enormity and splendor of this historical building. And although crowded with hundreds of visitors it was still an incredible experience. 

Whether it was used as a temple, church, mosque or cathedral is of no importance as it still symbolizes purity and sanctity. The dissension between those protecting the heritage of the mosque and those who want it to be used solely as a cathedral will in all probability continue for years to come. Their strife will never take away the magic of this unique place of worship.

The building consists of a large prayer room filled with stone and red brick columns and symmetrical arches, a courtyard with an ever-refreshing fountain, and of course the orange grove. A walkway and a minaret/bell tower complete the structure. The columns and elevations in the structure each play a role to bring natural light and ventilation into the Mezquita. Arches adorned with gold tesserae contrast the stone and red brick prayer hall beautifully. It is one of the most uniquely renovated buildings I have seen on my travels.

The beauty of the old part of the city, the Juderia de Còrdoba (Jewish quarter) with its labyrinth of narrow streets, the magnificent Mezquita, and the warmth of the Spanish people is forever imprinted in my mind. And with it the sweltering summer nights, pulsing Flamenco music, the scent of orange blossoms in the air, and a bowl of ice-cold salmorejo (a thicker version of a Gazpazo).

They say you can’t buy happiness, but you can go to Spain and that is pretty much the same thing.


GALLERY

Photo credit www.123rf.com

Photo Credit www.123rd.com







Inside the mosque


The old part of town


Bronze sculpture of Te Arab philosopher, theologian & doctor, Cordovan Ben Maimónides,  born and lived in Córdoba in the 12th century.


Mohamed Al-Gafequi was a 12th-century eye surgeon who trained in Cordoba and Baghdad, and specialized in the removal of cataracts.








Wednesday 1 February 2023

THE RED PALACE OF GRANADA


Tired feet and sun-burnt shoulders. The labour (of love!) of what is left after a day of exploring Malaga on foot.

Following a happy day of sight-seeing, the two-hour bus trip to Granada presented a welcome opportunity to recharge. Next up was a late-night dinner at the beautiful Hotel Macia Monasterio de los Basilios, a former seventeenth-century monastery, followed by a refreshing shower and wondrous sleep in a white-percale-linen bed. Just what my body needed. However, my mind had other plans and sleep did not come right away as I could not help but muse over my Malaga adventure.

Granada, surrounded by the majestic Sierra Nevada Mountains, (not to be mistaken with the similarly named mountain range in California, USA) is a modern metropolis with an astonishing past. The city cannot help but leave an unforgettable impact on just about every visitor who steps foot in this aesthetically beautiful city.

The story goes that when the famous Mexican poet, Francisco de Icaza, and his wife once came across a blind beggar in the streets of Granada, he turned to his beautiful wife and said: “Give him alms,  woman because there is nothing sadder in life than being blind in Granada”.

 In 2014, Granada became the first city in Spain to be recognized as a UNESCO City of Literature. Therefore, it comes as no surprise that it has and will continue to inspire and attract writers, poets, artists, filmmakers, and academics.

Without a doubt, the highlight of any traveler’s visit to Granada is of course a trip to the colossal Alhambra Palaces. Many, including myself, describe it as Spain’s most beautiful place. I would call the guided tour, in Spanish no less, a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

The tour was made special by Stefano, our good-looking Spanish tour guide who is truly passionate about his job, his culture, and the history thereof.  Even though I did not understand much of what was said as my knowledge of his language is limited, I enjoyed every minute of the three-hour-long tour. Sadly, the number of visitors at any given time is overwhelming and the complex becomes jam-packed with people. I was disappointed with how difficult it was to capture good photos, and the crowds do not make it easy to linger too long.  

I have a passion for historical sites. So where better to find them than in Spain? In 1984 the Alhambra Palace, (Qal’at al-Hamra in Arabic), was declared a UNESCO heritage site, because of its universal symbolic value and its contribution to the Moorish and Andalusian culture. You can grasp why today it is one of the most visited sites in Europe.

This Red Palace, as it is commonly referred to because of the colour of the outer walls, is one of the Seven Wonders of the Muslim world. It was declared an artistic and historical site in 1929 by the Royal Order, the highest degree of protection given to properties in Spain. Not only is it the last preserved Islamic kingdom treasure, but also the best kept in all of Europe.

Building started in 1232. The Red Palace was ruled by the Muslim Nasrid dynasty until 1492 when this dynasty was overthrown and required to convert to Christianity or face extreme brutality and prosecution.  This 35-acre tree-lined world-wonder consists of three parts:

The Alcazaba fortress, the oldest part of this monumental masterpiece is a city in itself. Strategically draped on the steep hills of Granada, it served as a military base during the reign of the Moors. It provided maximum protection against attacks from the enemy with multiple towers, fortified gates, and a two-and-a-half-kilometer wall. The breathtaking views of the city and the beautiful Albaicin area below, as well as the history of medieval Spain, is the the main reason the Alcazaba remains popular among travelers.

The second, and also the most beautiful, part of the entire complex is the three Nasrid Palaces with courtyards, arcades, and halls – of which the Hall of the Ambassador is the most impressive. Lavishly decorated, its roof is made up of 8 000 wooden pieces and its walls are lined with secret calligraphy inscriptions. The words “Only God is victorious” is written 9 000 times all through the hall. The Palace of the Lions, mostly used for recreational purposes, is probably the most well-known.

Water, the purest symbol of life, played an enormous role in the lives of the Moors. This Royal City was built with one goal in mind: to resemble the heavenly paradise that awaits believers in the afterlife, with exquisite architecture, running water, and nature in abundance.  

The third part of the Alhambra is known as the medina or court city, the residential area of the military and court staff.

The latest addition to this complex is of course the two-storey high Renaissance Palace built by Charles the 5th after Granada was recaptured in the fifteenth century by the Catholic Monarchs. Sadly, this beautiful golden core stone building, with marble finishes, was never occupied by a monarch.

However, the part that captured my attention the most was the magnificent orchards and gardens, or El Generalife Gardens as it is known. Bursting water features and fountains, arcades, terraces, and predominantly rectangular courtyards all form an integral part of this monument. Once, a place fit for sultans and royalty wishing to take a rest and find respite away from bustling official business!

The scale of architecture in Spain is remarkable. Historical buildings in particular. It remains a wonder just how the Moors and Romans orchestrated such architectural masterpieces with so little to their avail and so many enemies waiting to attack and conquer. The city of Granada creates a profound awareness of not only the physical but also the mental power and strength of the human being.

These thirteenth-century palaces built by Muslims and honoured by Christians blow the modern mind every time. No wonder it is visited by more than two million people every year.  

“If you were to visit just one city in Spain, it should be Granada,” is what Ernest Hemmingway had to say about this incredible city. I second his recommendation, along with Michelle Obama, Bill Clinton, Henri Matisse, Victor Hugo,  and William Shakespeare.

I salute you, Granada! 


GALLERY  (In no specific order)




































 

 

 

 

Friday 16 December 2022

THE QUEEN OF THE COSTA DEL SOL

Move over all other beaches in Europe, for I have found a glorious yellow sand beach in Spain! 

I made this discovery after a short flight from Santiago de Compostela catapulted me onto one of Europe’s favourite vacation destinations – Malaga, the capital of the Costa del Sol. I can understand why Malaga is a hot favourite. It is impossible not to immediately immerse yourself in the beauty of this city’s sun-drenched beaches framed by palm trees.

Malagueta Beach can be found next to Spain’s oldest yacht club, the Real Club Mediterraneo de Malaga. It is probably one of the most-visited Blue Flag beaches in the southern region of Spain. In fact, six million visitors a year, and locals alike enjoy the sandy beach and warm Mediterranean weather. Although it has always been a sought-after tourist destination, the city’s keepers have pivoted their focus more towards promoting art and culture to develop tourism even more.

As the birthplace of the very famous painter Pablo Picasso, art and culture continue to play a significant role in the marketing of this pulsing city with its half million inhabitants. Malaga, with its countless museums, historical buildings, and recreation centers is indeed an art lover’s paradise. 

The Picasso Museum permanently hosts 285 of Picasso’s 
2500 works. The Carmen Thyssen Museum and the glass-cubed Pompidou – the latter home to more than 900 original pieces of art–are also very popular.

Pablo Picasso, although known as a womaniser and cheater (he proclaimed that the many women he surrounded himself with were his source of artistic inspiration), was also one of the most prolific artists of all times. He was born talented and followed in his father’s footsteps, who was also a painter. Not only did he exhibit his work at the tender age of 13 but sadly his father also introduced him to brothels at this young age. Some of his earliest works were regarded as pornographic and were not well received by his austere Catholic surroundings. 

Whether the city got its name from the Arabic word malqa (a meeting place) or the Phoenician word malac, which means salt, this 3000-year-old city has undeniable charisma and charm. Occupied by the Arabs for 800 years and the Spanish since 1487, Malaga is modern and traditional at the same time. The city boasts architectural masterpieces, tons of history in the old part of town, superb food, and glorious Mediterranean weather. 

The almost stately Alcazaba fortress is built on the slopes of the Gibrafaro mountain, which means the panoramic view that the fortress provides of the remains of the theater below does not leave much to the imagination. From this vantage point, savour the breathtaking views beyond and admire just how the city and port blend in perfectly with the surrounding nature. Although it fell into ruins after the Moors left, it was later rebuilt by a Spaniard with a love for his Moorish past. 

An Alcazaba,‘AL-qasbah’ in Arabic, is a fortification within a walled city or town. Many Alcazabas were built during the 800-year occupation of the Moors in the region. These fortresses were built with one goal in common: to protect the people living in the cities and defend the cities from outsiders. Fortresses were all strategically positioned and well-maintained as it was not only home to the governor, his family, and workers at the time, but were also well-equipped with silos and cisterns to provide food and water during attacks from the enemy.

Exploring a city on foot is always the best way to experience its treasures and its people. Calle Larios, (Malaga’s own fifth Avenue) is the most expensive street to live in. If shopping is your thing, then the Larios should be on your bucket list. Plaza de la Constituciόn with its palm trees, bars, and street cafés is by far the city’s most beautiful and busiest square. Even though the square is packed with tourists, it is still worth the visit.

However, the highlight of my visit to Malaga was the magnificent Cathedral of Incarnation and the bright yellow Bishop’s Palace, both situated on the Plaza del Obispo. The building of the Cathedral started in 1528 but was never fully completed for various reasons, but mainly due to financial constraints. Hence the different architectural styles. Both Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles can be seen in the structure as well as the interior of this unique building. Because it was never completed it is today known as the “La Manquita”, the one-armed woman. I’ve visited quite a number of Cathedrals in Spain but stand in wonder every time I discover yet another, more elaborate and majestic masterpiece. 

Malaga is a green city with gardens and orchards as far as the eye can see. All credit goes to the Moors and their love for running water, plants, and fertile ground. Malaga’s oranges and lemons, grapes, pomegranates, almonds, sugar cane, and especially figs in all their forms (dried, fresh, and the very famous Pan de Higo, fig bread) are all still in great demand throughout the Mediterranean.

Although my stay in Malaga was short I will remember it as the ‘Queen of the Costa del Sol’ as it is sometimes referred to. It’s easy to fall in love with one of the oldest cities in the world for its archeological treasures, its modern-day appeal, and its Moorish past. Malaga will remain a diverse and enchanting city for travelers of all interests. 


 GALLERY
Malagueta



Remains of the theater
Alcazaba
Aerial View Malaga Photo credit Spain Tourism
Glass cubes museum
Picasso at work

Posing with Picasso

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A WHALE OF A TIME

I was dressed for the occasion and waiting to embark on an exciting adventure. Ready and eager to set sail on a whale and dolphin-watching t...