THE RED PALACE OF GRANADA

Tired feet and sun-burnt shoulders. The labour (of love!) of what is left after a day of exploring Malaga on foot.

Following a happy day of sight-seeing, the two-hour bus trip to Granada presented a welcome opportunity to recharge. Next up was a late-night dinner at the beautiful Hotel Macia Monasterio de los Basilios, a former seventeenth-century monastery, followed by a refreshing shower and wondrous sleep in a white-percale-linen bed. Just what my body needed. However, my mind had other plans and sleep did not come right away as I could not help but muse over my Malaga adventure.

Granada, surrounded by the majestic Sierra Nevada Mountains, (not to be mistaken with the similarly named mountain range in California, USA) is a modern metropolis with an astonishing past. The city cannot help but leave an unforgettable impact on just about every visitor who steps foot in this aesthetically beautiful city.

The story goes that when the famous Mexican poet, Francisco de Icaza, and his wife once came across a blind beggar in the streets of Granada, he turned to his beautiful wife and said: “Give him alms,  woman because there is nothing sadder in life than being blind in Granada”.

 In 2014, Granada became the first city in Spain to be recognized as a UNESCO City of Literature. Therefore, it comes as no surprise that it has and will continue to inspire and attract writers, poets, artists, filmmakers, and academics.

Without a doubt, the highlight of any traveler’s visit to Granada is of course a trip to the colossal Alhambra Palaces. Many, including myself, describe it as Spain’s most beautiful place. I would call the guided tour, in Spanish no less, a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

The tour was made special by Stefano, our good-looking Spanish tour guide who is truly passionate about his job, his culture, and the history thereof.  Even though I did not understand much of what was said as my knowledge of his language is limited, I enjoyed every minute of the three-hour-long tour. Sadly, the number of visitors at any given time is overwhelming and the complex becomes jam-packed with people. I was disappointed with how difficult it was to capture good photos, and the crowds do not make it easy to linger too long.  

I have a passion for historical sites. So where better to find them than in Spain? In 1984 the Alhambra Palace, (Qal’at al-Hamra in Arabic), was declared a UNESCO heritage site, because of its universal symbolic value and its contribution to the Moorish and Andalusian culture. You can grasp why today it is one of the most visited sites in Europe.

This Red Palace, as it is commonly referred to because of the colour of the outer walls, is one of the Seven Wonders of the Muslim world. It was declared an artistic and historical site in 1929 by the Royal Order, the highest degree of protection given to properties in Spain. Not only is it the last preserved Islamic kingdom treasure, but also the best kept in all of Europe.

Building started in 1232. The Red Palace was ruled by the Muslim Nasrid dynasty until 1492 when this dynasty was overthrown and required to convert to Christianity or face extreme brutality and prosecution.  This 35-acre tree-lined world-wonder consists of three parts:

The Alcazaba fortress, the oldest part of this monumental masterpiece is a city in itself. Strategically draped on the steep hills of Granada, it served as a military base during the reign of the Moors. It provided maximum protection against attacks from the enemy with multiple towers, fortified gates, and a two-and-a-half-kilometer wall. The breathtaking views of the city and the beautiful Albaicin area below, as well as the history of medieval Spain, is the the main reason the Alcazaba remains popular among travelers.

The second, and also the most beautiful, part of the entire complex is the three Nasrid Palaces with courtyards, arcades, and halls – of which the Hall of the Ambassador is the most impressive. Lavishly decorated, its roof is made up of 8 000 wooden pieces and its walls are lined with secret calligraphy inscriptions. The words “Only God is victorious” is written 9 000 times all through the hall. The Palace of the Lions, mostly used for recreational purposes, is probably the most well-known.

Water, the purest symbol of life, played an enormous role in the lives of the Moors. This Royal City was built with one goal in mind: to resemble the heavenly paradise that awaits believers in the afterlife, with exquisite architecture, running water, and nature in abundance.  

The third part of the Alhambra is known as the medina or court city, the residential area of the military and court staff.

The latest addition to this complex is of course the two-storey high Renaissance Palace built by Charles the 5th after Granada was recaptured in the fifteenth century by the Catholic Monarchs. Sadly, this beautiful golden core stone building, with marble finishes, was never occupied by a monarch.

However, the part that captured my attention the most was the magnificent orchards and gardens, or El Generalife Gardens as it is known. Bursting water features and fountains, arcades, terraces, and predominantly rectangular courtyards all form an integral part of this monument. Once, a place fit for sultans and royalty wishing to take a rest and find respite away from bustling official business!

The scale of architecture in Spain is remarkable. Historical buildings in particular. It remains a wonder just how the Moors and Romans orchestrated such architectural masterpieces with so little to their avail and so many enemies waiting to attack and conquer. The city of Granada creates a profound awareness of not only the physical but also the mental power and strength of the human being.

These thirteenth-century palaces built by Muslims and honoured by Christians blow the modern mind every time. No wonder it is visited by more than two million people every year.  

“If you were to visit just one city in Spain, it should be Granada,” is what Ernest Hemmingway had to say about this incredible city. I second his recommendation, along with Michelle Obama, Bill Clinton, Henri Matisse, Victor Hugo,  and William Shakespeare.

I salute you, Granada! 

GALLERY  (In no specific order)