Jo's Space: THE WALL AND THE SAINT

“Ogniviaggio lo vivitrevoitequando lo sogni, quando lo vivu, e quando lo ricordi.”

That’s right. Let this famous Italian quote simmer for a minute. It means: “You experience every journey three times: when you dream of it, when you go and when you remember it.”

When it was time for my first post-pandemic trip abroad, I was more than ready. The travel industry was one of the hardest-hit industries. Although I have been raring to travel in the wake left behind by the post-pandemic world, let’s be honest – flights and services are still volatile. Strikes and staff shortages are realities that are still holding on like a lover that is not yet ready to quit on an unrequited love.

But travelers like me, with early adaptor blood pulsing through their veins, are hungry for unfamiliar adventures.

As a specie, collectively we understand that communities worldwide are equally raring to rebuild the tourism industry that they have come to depend on for so many years. These communities are once again ready to welcome back travelers who, like me, are starving to experience what their pastures have to offer.

Mask-wearing on all of my long-haul flights was still compulsory. It w myas the only reminder left of the dreaded virus that haunted our beautiful Mother Earth for two years. I must admit that while I was never in favour of wearing a mask, somehow it made me feel a little safer in these crowded Boeings. I can’t deny that the thought of how we so easily share the air with hundreds of breathers from diverse corners of the globe popped into my head as the glorious big metal bird took me on wonderous adventures.

Because I inevitably felt a bit rusty, I expected traveling from South Africa to Spain to present a fair bit of challenges. Soon enough, 32 hours in transit was forgotten just as feet connected with magical foreign soil once more. Spain was waiting for me! I could not wait to revisit old familiar places, but even better, to discover new ones.

Lugo, one of the oldest cities (if not the oldest) in Galicia, was first on my list to explore. Initially, the city was named after the Celtic god Lugus. But later, when the Romans arrived in their search for gold, they renamed the city Lucus Augusti.

Perched on a hill, in the northwestern part of Spain, you’ll find the city situated on a hill, and below it –the banks of the Mino River.

What started off as a Roman settlement in 1833 is currently one of the most visited towns in Galicia. Like so many historical Roman cities and sites in Spain, Lugo’s past inspires! So does its breathtaking scenery, compliments of the mighty MinoRivercurving through the city, the vibrant food, and of course its people.

The main attraction in Lugo is the formidable wall that encircles the old town, which was initially built to prevent the barbarians from entering the city. This massive wall miraculously stayed intact for 18 Centuries. Today, Lugo is the only city in the world surrounded by a completely intact stone wall. You can understand why the wall was declared a Historical Artistic Ensemble all the way back in 1973 and then in 2000 received UNESCO World Heritage Site status.

Built in the third century mainly of slate, granite, and stone, the wall is Roman craftsmanship at its best with a length of approximately 2117m, a height between 8 and 10m, and a width of between 4 and 7m at some points. More than seventy semi-cylindrical external towers dot the wall, each with curved lookout points and several gates and staircases.

I stood there marveling at this classic masterpiece, silently wishing that it will be preserved for generations to come.

I was fortunate to stay in the popular Mendez Nunez Hotel situated in the heart of the historic district for a couple of nights. I experienced what it was like living in a prehistoric city ringed off by Roman walls, where history pulses through every street, around every corner.

One of the historic buildings that stood out was the richly decorated Roman Catholic Cathedral of St Mary, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was built in 1127 and exhibits Renaissance, Baroque, and Neoclassic style architecture. Everything adds to the opulence of this magnificent Cathedral. From the Renaissance altarpiece, done by Cornelis de Holanda, right through to the many Baroque paintings, the colourful stained glass windows, and down to every minute detail of the Shrine of Nuestra Senora de Los Ojos Grandes.

Like the hungry traveler I was, my soul feasted on all the beauty that this magical town offered. I strolled through narrow cobblestone streets and alleys, beautiful and lush city gardens, and spacious plazas. I reveled in the taste of a classic tapa and a refreshing glass of Vermouth. Along with my tastebuds, my soul was content with the newness once again.

Spain is known for many things like flamenco dancing, bullfights, a colourful Roman past, and midday siestas. But top of the list is definitely their wonderful festivals or fiestas as it is known in Spanish.

I had a feeling that the saying ‘go big or go home must have originated in Spain because the Festival of St Froilan certainly lived up to this expectation. I felt honoured to have served as a patron of the city at this very moment in time, which is why I soaked up everything the Spanish fiesta offered me. It felt like a warm welcome, arranged only for my benefit.

This event originated in 1754 and has become a highlight on the Galician calendar. Legend has it that Saint Froilan lived a life of isolation in the mountains of O Cebreiro with only a tamed wolf as company. Later he became the Bishop of Leon where he was known as a miracle worker because of his generosity to the poor and his commitment to the simple lifestyle he had chosen.

Hundreds, if not thousands of people flock to the city each year to partake in the weeklong festivities. Street markets, religious ceremonies, endless parades, street entertainers, musicians, and food stalls all add to the success of this annual event.

For a devoted food lover like myself, it is always easy to gravitate to the nearest food stall or street cafe in my quest to try new dishes or relish old familiar ones. Spain has nearly 5000km of glorious coastline and a history connected to the sea a thousand times longer. This history is deeply imprinted in the character of this beautiful country. The quality, as well as the variety of seafood on offer, is exceptional.

Pulpo a la Gallega (octopus) is one of my favorite Spanish dishes. This delectable treat still gets prepared in the traditional way, right there on mostly all Spanish city center sidewalks by the Galician pulpeiras(os). Cooked in huge copper pots, cut up with scissors, and served with olive oil and paprika on a wooden plate, it is probably one of the most famous foods of Galicia.

Other delicacies like empanadas, cheeses, churros, thick hot chocolate, chestnuts, sweet pastries, local wines, and liqueurs are on generous display. You cannot help but fall for these temptations as shop and stall owners approach visitors with examples of their delicacies.

To me, the highlight of any festive evening is the sharing of a seafood platter with friends. One can only describe this particular platter as a “heap of incredible creatures on a plate,” to use the famed foodie, Anthony Bourdain’s words.

I felt hesitant to leave this magical city, because once I entered through those Roman gates, I knew I was hooked on the essence of this magical country. But it was time to move on to the next dreamy destination and unlock more of Spain’s treasure chambers.

GALLERY