“Ogniviaggio lo
vivitrevoitequando lo sogni, quando lo vivu, e quando lo ricordi.”
That’s right. Let this
famous Italian quote simmer for a minute. It means: “You experience every
journey three times: when you dream of it, when you go and when you remember
it.”
When it was time for my
first post-pandemic trip abroad, I was more than ready. The travel
industry was one of the hardest-hit industries. Although I have been raring to
travel in the wake left behind by the post-pandemic world, let’s be honest –
flights and services are still volatile. Strikes and staff shortages are
realities that are still holding on like a lover that is not yet ready to quit
on an unrequited love.
But travelers like me, with
early adaptor blood pulsing through their veins, are hungry for unfamiliar adventures.
As a specie,
collectively we understand that communities worldwide are equally raring to rebuild
the tourism industry that they have come to depend on for so many years. These communities are once again ready to welcome back travelers who, like me, are starving to
experience what their pastures have to offer.
Mask-wearing on all of my long-haul flights was still compulsory. It w myas the only reminder left of the
dreaded virus that haunted our beautiful Mother Earth for two years. I must
admit that while I was never in favour of wearing a mask, somehow it made me
feel a little safer in these crowded Boeings. I can’t deny that the thought of
how we so easily share the air with hundreds of breathers from diverse corners
of the globe popped into my head as the glorious big metal bird took me on
wonderous adventures.
Because I inevitably
felt a bit rusty, I expected traveling from South Africa to Spain to present a
fair bit of challenges. Soon enough, 32 hours in transit was forgotten just as
feet connected with magical foreign soil once more. Spain was waiting for me! I
could not wait to revisit old familiar places, but even better, to discover new
ones.
Lugo, one of the oldest
cities (if not the oldest) in Galicia, was first on my list to
explore. Initially, the city was named after the Celtic god Lugus. But
later, when the Romans arrived in their search for gold, they renamed the city Lucus Augusti.
Perched on a hill, in
the northwestern part of Spain, you’ll find the city situated on a hill, and
below it –the banks of the Mino River.
What started off as a
Roman settlement in 1833 is currently one of the most visited towns in Galicia.
Like so many historical Roman cities and sites in Spain, Lugo’s past inspires!
So does its breathtaking scenery, compliments of the mighty MinoRivercurving
through the city, the vibrant food, and of course its people.
The main attraction in
Lugo is the formidable wall that encircles the old town, which was initially
built to prevent the barbarians from entering the city. This massive wall
miraculously stayed intact for 18 Centuries. Today, Lugo is the only city in
the world surrounded by a completely intact stone wall. You can understand why the
wall was declared a Historical Artistic Ensemble all the way back in 1973 and
then in 2000 received UNESCO World Heritage Site status.
Built in the third century mainly of slate, granite, and stone, the wall is Roman craftsmanship at its best
with a length of approximately 2117m, a height between 8 and 10m, and a width
of between 4 and 7m at some points. More than seventy semi-cylindrical external
towers dot the wall, each with curved lookout points and several gates and
staircases.
I stood there marveling at
this classic masterpiece, silently wishing that it will be preserved for
generations to come.
I was fortunate to stay
in the popular Mendez Nunez Hotel situated in the heart of the historic
district for a couple of nights. I experienced what it was like living in a
prehistoric city ringed off by Roman walls, where history pulses through every
street, around every corner.
One of the historic buildings
that stood out was the richly decorated Roman Catholic Cathedral of St Mary, another
UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was built in 1127 and exhibits Renaissance,
Baroque, and Neoclassic style architecture. Everything adds to the opulence of
this magnificent Cathedral. From the Renaissance altarpiece, done by
Cornelis de Holanda, right through to the many Baroque paintings, the colourful
stained glass windows, and down to every minute detail of the Shrine of Nuestra
Senora de Los Ojos Grandes.
Like the hungry traveler
I was, my soul feasted on all the beauty that this magical town offered. I
strolled through narrow cobblestone streets and alleys, beautiful and lush city
gardens, and spacious plazas. I reveled in the taste of a classic tapa and a
refreshing glass of Vermouth. Along with my tastebuds, my soul was content with the newness once again.
Spain is known for many
things like flamenco dancing, bullfights, a colourful Roman past, and midday
siestas. But top of the list is definitely their wonderful festivals or fiestas as
it is known in Spanish.
I had a feeling that the
saying ‘go big or go home must have originated in Spain because the Festival of
St Froilan certainly lived up to this expectation. I felt honoured to have served
as a patron of the city at this very moment in time, which is why I soaked up
everything the Spanish fiesta offered me. It felt like a warm
welcome, arranged only for my benefit.
This event originated in
1754 and has become a highlight on the Galician calendar. Legend has it
that Saint Froilan lived a life of isolation in the mountains of O Cebreiro
with only a tamed wolf as company. Later he became the Bishop of Leon where he
was known as a miracle worker because of his generosity to the poor and his
commitment to the simple lifestyle he had chosen.
Hundreds, if not
thousands of people flock to the city each year to partake in the weeklong festivities. Street
markets, religious ceremonies, endless parades, street entertainers, musicians,
and food stalls all add to the success of this annual event.
For a devoted food lover
like myself, it is always easy to gravitate to the nearest food stall or street
cafe in my quest to try new dishes or relish old familiar ones. Spain has nearly 5000km
of glorious coastline and a history connected to the sea a thousand times
longer. This history is deeply imprinted in the character of this beautiful
country. The quality, as well as the variety of seafood on offer, is
exceptional.
Pulpo a la Gallega
(octopus) is one of my favorite Spanish dishes. This delectable treat still gets prepared
in the traditional way, right there on mostly all Spanish city center
sidewalks by the Galician pulpeiras(os). Cooked in huge copper pots, cut
up with scissors, and served with olive oil and paprika on a wooden plate, it is
probably one of the most famous foods of Galicia.
Other delicacies like
empanadas, cheeses, churros, thick hot chocolate, chestnuts, sweet pastries,
local wines, and liqueurs are on generous display. You cannot help but fall for
these temptations as shop and stall owners approach visitors with examples of
their delicacies.
To me, the highlight of
any festive evening is the sharing of a seafood platter with friends. One can
only describe this particular platter as a “heap of incredible creatures on a
plate,” to use the famed foodie, Anthony Bourdain’s words.
I felt hesitant to leave
this magical city, because once I entered through those Roman gates, I knew I
was hooked on the essence of this magical country. But it was time to move on
to the next dreamy destination and unlock more of Spain’s treasure chambers.
GALLERY
The wall |
One of many Gates |
Saint Froilan |
Seafood platter |
Vermouthh |