CUNCAS IN CALDAS

I am at a stage in my life where I no longer need to impress anyone and deem it much more rewarding to collect memorable moments than worldly possessions. When the sun goes down and the bra comes off I want to look back and say  “No regrets - it was a day well lived!”  

The best way to create meaningful memories, in my opinion, is by traveling. Finding hidden treasures and experiencing magical moments is my idea of bliss.

Small towns nestled in the lush green valleys of Pontevedra are the jewels of Galicia and Caldas de Reis is no exception. The birth-place of Alfonso VII, the first Emperor of Castile and Leon, is often referred to as the ‘spa-town’ and lies at the confluence of the Bermana and Umia rivers in the province of Pontevedra.  

The municipality profits from having curative mineral water renowned for its temperature, which fluctuates between 30 and 46 degrees Celsius. Its unique composition is believed to aid with the healing of respiratory, rheumatic and skin conditions. Unsurprisingly, the town’s hot springs have a long tradition of therapeutic and relaxation centers. 

Galicia has more mineral and hot springs than nearly any other city or town in Europe. Its unique springs have been around for thousands of years! To the Romans the thermal water was sacred; they believed that the mystical beings with superpowers to restore the health of their aficionados lived in the waters. Today these Roman baths are very popular with pilgrims traveling on the Santiago de Camino route from Portugal. Many tired and sore feet have sought comfort in the healing waters of Caldas. 

As I was not one of the thousands of sore-feet and tired pilgrims passing through, I had no reason to set foot in hot water and risk a disease or infection of some kind. However, nothing could have prevented me from going down on my knees with cupped hands and drinking hot water from a century-old fountain. I must admit there was nothing pleasant about tasting these wonder-waters of the Romans. But it’s like my mother used to say, ‘good medicine never tastes good’. 

  

The highlight of our visit to Caldas, however, was not the spas or healing hot springs but an unforgettable evening at O Muiño. We were not the first international guests to be intrigued by this charming restaurant. Situated on the banks of the river this old watermill turned restaurant/bar boasts character and old world charm.

Do not let the outside of this old building fool you, once inside, the ebullient ambiance, country food, and the local wine are first class. The most important feature of O Muiño is, of course, its Galician cuisine and bucolic interior. 

Galicia is famous for its fresh seafood and the cold plankton-rich waters of the Iberian coast has been the ideal spawning ground for the glistening fresh sardines that are served at most tapas bars and restaurants.

Dipping chunks of rustic bread in the sauces of the perfectly fried sardines and drinking a light Ribeiro (wine) from a cunca turned my Galician dinner into a Roman feast.

Drinking wine from a porcelain cup or ‘cunca’ (unha taza in Galician) was a first for me, yet it is the most traditional way of drinking wine in Galicia. Historically, glassware was rare and expensive, so most bars and taverns served wine in ceramic bowls.

Caldas de Reis will be remembered fondly and when I open my photo files, I know I will muse over them, experiencing a brutal nostalgia knowing I will return in memory and dreams.

GALLERY

O Muinho

Down on my knees

Rustic bread on display

WALL DECOR

Inside O Muinho

Wine in a cunca

A Roman feast