HIKING THE SLIPPER

The Lady Slipper hiking trail- or any hiking expedition for that matter- should preferably not be done unaccompanied. Fortunately for me, my friends are quite supportive and even join in some of my adventures.

The Lady Slipper gets its name from the shape of the rock, which looks as if it has been glued to the side of the mountain. It resembles an upside-down lady slipper and can best be seen when you look at the mountain from a distance.

The reserve and mountain belong to the Mountain Club of South Africa in the Eastern Province and a permit is needed to enter the hiking trail. The rugged trail is approximately 3.2 km up and down and takes anything from one to three hours to complete.

Taking on the Lady Slipper trail is not a walk in the park. Young adults and teenagers reach the top huffing and puffing and boastfully flaunt a bruise or two. The older generation, however, celebrates when reaching the summit by gulping down heart and blood pressure tablets with suspicious looking fluids from their silver flasks and plastic bottles.

Although the peak is only 585m above sea level, it felt much higher. As we made our way through branches and bush to ascend the rocky Lady Slipper trail, the sudden drop in temperature was a welcome relief from the scorching sun that had been burning on our skin at the start of the trail.  

For those brave enough to take on the Lady Slipper trail, stunning views of the Groot Winterhoek Mountains on one side and the Sunshine Coast on the other await you. The jaw-dropping views are worth the steep and sometimes slippery walk through a beautiful landscape and untouched fynbos. The raging fires of last year are all forgotten when you become aware of the indigenous saplings breaking through the black earth, and can rest assured knowing the mountain will soon be covered in colour.

A comfortable pair of hiking boots/shoes suitable for rocky surfaces is advised when taking on the Lady Slipper trail, as it is far from a smooth walk. As with any hike, it's also important to bring the standard gear: enough water, a strong sunblock, snacks, a hat, and a sweater. A hiking stick for older and unfit hikers like myself comes in handy when crossing the particularly rocky and coarse parts of the trail. Be prepared to go down on your derriere or use all fours to get you over some of the steeper rocks and obstacles. Children under the age of 8 and pets are not allowed on the trail although we were met at the top by two friendly dogs belonging to some of the locals living in the area.

We were absolutely exhausted after the climb to the top but somehow mustered up the energy to explore the area for another 3km. The descent, however, was easier said than done. Simon and Garfunkel's 'Slip-sliding away' was the song that came to mind as I was trying to keep my balance on the steep rocks and slippery paths. 

After 5 hours out in the blazing sun, we reached our car, bruised, sweaty, dehydrated and dirty - but proud of our achievement. Our next hike is already on the drawing board.

GALLERY

The Slipper from a distance
Photo credit:  Geoview

 

CUNCAS IN CALDAS

I am at a stage in my life where I no longer need to impress anyone and deem it much more rewarding to collect memorable moments than worldly possessions. When the sun goes down and the bra comes off I want to look back and say  “No regrets - it was a day well lived!”  

The best way to create meaningful memories, in my opinion, is by traveling. Finding hidden treasures and experiencing magical moments is my idea of bliss.

Small towns nestled in the lush green valleys of Pontevedra are the jewels of Galicia and Caldas de Reis is no exception. The birth-place of Alfonso VII, the first Emperor of Castile and Leon, is often referred to as the ‘spa-town’ and lies at the confluence of the Bermana and Umia rivers in the province of Pontevedra.  

The municipality profits from having curative mineral water renowned for its temperature, which fluctuates between 30 and 46 degrees Celsius. Its unique composition is believed to aid with the healing of respiratory, rheumatic and skin conditions. Unsurprisingly, the town’s hot springs have a long tradition of therapeutic and relaxation centers. 

Galicia has more mineral and hot springs than nearly any other city or town in Europe. Its unique springs have been around for thousands of years! To the Romans the thermal water was sacred; they believed that the mystical beings with superpowers to restore the health of their aficionados lived in the waters. Today these Roman baths are very popular with pilgrims traveling on the Santiago de Camino route from Portugal. Many tired and sore feet have sought comfort in the healing waters of Caldas. 

As I was not one of the thousands of sore-feet and tired pilgrims passing through, I had no reason to set foot in hot water and risk a disease or infection of some kind. However, nothing could have prevented me from going down on my knees with cupped hands and drinking hot water from a century-old fountain. I must admit there was nothing pleasant about tasting these wonder-waters of the Romans. But it’s like my mother used to say, ‘good medicine never tastes good’. 

  

The highlight of our visit to Caldas, however, was not the spas or healing hot springs but an unforgettable evening at O Muiño. We were not the first international guests to be intrigued by this charming restaurant. Situated on the banks of the river this old watermill turned restaurant/bar boasts character and old world charm.

Do not let the outside of this old building fool you, once inside, the ebullient ambiance, country food, and the local wine are first class. The most important feature of O Muiño is, of course, its Galician cuisine and bucolic interior. 

Galicia is famous for its fresh seafood and the cold plankton-rich waters of the Iberian coast has been the ideal spawning ground for the glistening fresh sardines that are served at most tapas bars and restaurants.

Dipping chunks of rustic bread in the sauces of the perfectly fried sardines and drinking a light Ribeiro (wine) from a cunca turned my Galician dinner into a Roman feast.

Drinking wine from a porcelain cup or ‘cunca’ (unha taza in Galician) was a first for me, yet it is the most traditional way of drinking wine in Galicia. Historically, glassware was rare and expensive, so most bars and taverns served wine in ceramic bowls.

Caldas de Reis will be remembered fondly and when I open my photo files, I know I will muse over them, experiencing a brutal nostalgia knowing I will return in memory and dreams.

GALLERY

O Muinho

Down on my knees

Rustic bread on display

WALL DECOR

Inside O Muinho

Wine in a cunca

A Roman feast