Enjoying food and wine with friends and family is a fundamental part of the Galician culture. Sharing a plate of Pulpo a la Gallega or Pimientos de Padron is as appealing to the senses as it is nurturing to the soul. The simplicity of this dish is what makes it so unique. Octopus is boiled till very soft, sprinkled with paprika, salt, and olive oil and served with pieces of rustic bread to soak up the delicious sauces.
Galician cuisine differs considerably from the rest of Europe but the variety and abundance of seafood complimented by the excellent selection of meats from the lush and fertile valleys have lured many a gastronomist, food historian, award winning chef and food-loving tourist to the shores of Galicia. During my recent visit to Galicia, I was fortunate to have a food guru/historian/art connoisseur at my side. I was introduced to all the delicacies of the region and was, like most visitors to the region, impressed and duly satisfied. The quality of food is excellent and always prepared in such a way as to enhance the natural flavors of the product.
Fishing, in particular, is one of Galicia’s main trade industries and annual sales estimate at about 1 billion euros. An average of five thousand vessels harvest approximately two hundred thousand tons of seafood and shellfish annually and their mussel estuaries set them as one of the largest competitors in scale and quality in Europe and abroad. Galicia’s fresh produce is strictly regulated by the European Union for its value and geographical origin.
Galicia also boasts a fertile, green, rainy region known as “The Land of the 1,000 Rivers”, which is this country’s most aberrant region. It is situated in the northern corner of Spain and borders Portugal on the east with the surf of the Atlantic Ocean embracing its coastline. This region is known for its inland grid of waterways or “rivers”, pasture and mountainous terrain, granite houses with slate-tiled roofs and historical fishermen’s villages which all contribute to this scenic delight.
And as the waterways come together in celebration so do Galician festivals. Fiestas, like siestas, are part of the Galician culture and are celebrated throughout the year. The majority of the festivals have a strong Celtic influence where bagpipes, dancing, fireworks, and food form part of the array of activities. Although most of the festivals have its origin in religion, food festivals are just as popular. Throughout the centuries food was seen as a symbol of celebration during difficult times. In as much as I enjoyed the vibrancy of fiestas though, some of my most memorable moments were spent at a table for two in a tapas bar, a street cafe, an up-market restaurant, a posh tea room, or simply by devouring a midnight snack at the kitchen table with my compadre.
Olive oil, wine, and bread form the basis of the Galician diet and it undeniably originates from medieval times. Spanish olive oil and olives are of the best in the world and are exported worldwide, even to South Africa, for which I am very grateful. Drinking Vermouth or Vermu as it is known in Spain, in century old buildings or rubbing shoulders with tourists from all over Europe in noisy tapas bars in Santiago at midnight are all mysterious and magical moments to me.
The very famous Pimientos de Padron is a lovely small green pepper with a very distinct taste. Again, the cooking process is easy and simple. Shallow or deep fried in olive oil and served with coarse salt. Nothing more and nothing less. Most of the peppers have a mild taste, but from time to time, the odd one will find its heated way to your palate.
Empanadas, Spanish tortillas, sardines, mussels, scallops, gazpacho, pâtés, and several local cheese varieties were all known to me before I started my journey, but sharing it with special people made it taste just so much better.
I must confess, I am not much of a meat-eater, but I enjoyed the selection of cured ham which is very popular in Galicia. ‘Galician caviar’ as my host refers to it. Making pambolis, (bread with oil) just before midnight, ignites my soul and arises my passions. Lamb, however, is not very popular and veal is preferred to beef. Spanish chorizos (sausages) differ significantly from the Mexican chorizos and are very popular on sandwiches, bocadillos (artisan bread), in stews and served as tapas. Galician fruit and vegetables are also of a very high standard and I could not resist the abundance of figs, mangos, rambutans, plantains, and laughs that accompanied every titillating bite.
The most interesting part of the Galician daily food consumption tradition for me, was, of course, the lack of an early breakfast. In my home country breakfast plays a very important role and is it eaten in most households. Spaniards of course rather enjoy something sweet in the morning washed down with bottomless cups of very strong coffee. My first introduction to the very famous and popular churros was not very impressive. It was too oily and not sweet enough to my taste. I was however told that the correct way of eating the churro was to dunk it in a cup of thick hot chocolate. This was indeed true and an improvement on the taste, but having it for breakfast did not sit well with a woman who loves her Boerebreakfast. (farmers breakfast)
Tea is a rarity in Galicia, but to my surprise, I was offered Rooibos on many occasions, as if my arrival was welcomed. Rooibos is well known for its many health benefits and is made from a herbal plant that only grows in South Africa. During my stay in Santiago, I was introduced to the very traditional Torta de Santiago and various sweet pastries mainly with an almond base and made of puff pastries.
Last but not least was, of course, the lovely wines of Galicia. The local Albarino and Ribeiro both are popular choices to accompany any meal. My personal favorite was, of course, the Ribeiro. A lovely light white wine that goes well with all tapas as well as more formal meals. Galicia predominantly produces wine that is white, light and fruity. Drinking wine from a porcelain cup or cunca, as it is known in Spain, forms part of a very old tradition and is still in use in many tapas bars and eateries all across Galicia. Ending a night with a glass of Port and a tin of 12 Uvas del a Suerte (12 grapes of luck) or Mirabeles en Almibar (plums in syrup) guarantees memories last a lifetime. The '12 Grapes' are traditionally eaten on New Year's Eve when the clock strikes twelve and symbolizes twelve lucky months to come. This centuries old Spanish tradition dates back to the 1800's and eating a grape at each bell strike will, according to old witches' tales, keep all evil away from you. As of late, it is a gesture of welcoming the New Year and exchanging good wishes.
The Romans and Greeks believed that wine, food, and art was a way of enhancing life. Food brings people together and sometimes you will never know the value of a moment until it becomes a memory as Dr. Zeus said.
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