Although my visit to
the Alhambra Palaces in Granada was a significant highlight of my recent
visit to Spain, spending a night of passion, song, and dance in a century-old
cave is an experience not to be missed. I was in the company of fellow travelers
and gypsy dancers with each their own intriguing story, culture, and visible
enjoyment of the expressive waves of movement we witnessed.
While the Flamenco is associated with the Gitanos (gypsies), the origins of this world-famous dance date back as far as 1774. However, the true start of the Flamenco as it is known today is very vague. What started off as a dance of oppression by migrant workers has evolved into a symbol of a Nation.
The initial dance was done without any musical instruments in the Sacromonte caves. These caves were originally inhabited by the Gitanos, Jews, and Muslims, who were expelled from the city of Granada, at the time. Spain has been a melting pot of migrants throughout its history and this is evident in the food and language wherever you go.
Workers from India, the Moors, the Jews, the Gitanos, the Greeks, and the Romans all brought musical instruments, song, and dance to this beautiful and diverse country, resulting in the development of the Flamenco dance as we know it today.
Many of the caves have a restaurant adjacent to the tablaos (a place where they dance) that is exclusively used for the Zambra Gitanas (the Flamenco show). In many instances, the entire family is involved in the business. I could not help but notice a small child clinging to his mother’s beautiful red dress before her performance knowing that one day he would be part of a lineage of performers
I was part of a group that attended the late-night event at the Cueva de la Rocio in the very famous Sacromonte neighbourhood. Probably one of the oldest and most popular tablaos in Granada. It was founded by the Maya family in the 1950s and is still run by them. Dinner was served at 10pm after which the one-hour show followed
Of course, no evening at the de la Rocio starts without carafes filled with ice-cold Sangria served by handsome muscle-toned Gitanos.
This family-run business caters for tourists from across the globe. Their service in the restaurant as well as during the show was professional and of a very high standard and it comes as no surprise to learn that the Flamenco received A Prestigio Turistico award and was declared a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2010. Many celebrities and state men and women have spent a night in the company of the Maya family. King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia, Michelle Obama, and Bill Clinton to name but a few.
The music, born of gypsies in the country’s southern regions, was admired by foreigners long before it became a national symbol. The Flamenco is much more than just pulsing dances and foot-stomping; it is poetry, singing, guitar playing, and finger and hand clapping. Castanets, exquisite costumes, mesmerizing choreography, and their colorful ‘pericons’ (fans), which are slightly larger than a normal fan, add to the success of such an event.
As part of the audience, you can’t help but join in with cheering shouts of ¡Ole! ¡Ole!, handclapping and foot stomping. One easily gets carried away by the passion of the performers as the music pulsates through the air and the dancers use every muscle in their body and face to perform this passionate and sensual dance.
I walked out of this electrifying atmosphere into the night with the rhythm of the Spanish guitar still in the background, a song in my heart, a bounce in my step, and maybe one Sangria too many. The worries of the world were forgotten for one night.
¡Ole! ¡Ole! ¡Hasta la próxima de la Rocio!!
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