Còrdoba, with its flower-filled patios, graffiti on white-washed walls, intriguing history, and home to ancient Roman poets, philosophers, and flamenco artists was love at first sight for me. A city with the past of its Muslim rulers firmly rooted in the ancient architecture hiding all over town. A city with notoriously late dinners and unique social eating habits like the sobremesa (upon the table) a Spanish tradition of relaxing at the table long after dessert is served. A city with people passionate and knowledgeable about their heritage, language, and culture. A city where the sanctity of humanity is clearly visible, and I was privileged to be part of it for a moment in time.
Córdoba, a city in the south of the Iberian Peninsula in Spain, was once occupied by the Romans, the Jews, the Moors, and the Visigoths and each imprinted a part of their history on this magical city. It was founded by the Romans in the 2nd century and conquered by the Moors in the 8th during which time it rose to its greatest glory of all times.
Hundreds of mosques, palaces, and public buildings were built, and agriculture prospered. Còrdoba flourished under the reign of Prince Aba al-Rahman who fled from Damascus when his family (the Umayyads) was overthrown. Orange trees, imported by the new rulers, can still be found in the Court of Oranges (courtyard) at the Mosque. In fact, it is considered to be the oldest garden in Europe and dates to the 8th century.
However, during the 13th century, when the Moors were removed from power, Ferdinand the Great, converted the mosque into a Cathedral. Visiting the Mosque-Cathedral or the Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba (in Spanish) is an absolute must and highlight for visitors to Andalucía. It takes us back thousands of years to a time when a sophisticated society existed and is regarded as one of the world’s greatest Islamic buildings ever built. It can be found in the historic center of Còrdoba, near the banks of the river Guadalquivir and is said to be one of the oldest structures built by the Moors that is still standing. Its popularity can be seen in the almost two million visitors every year. The biggest and also the last reconstruction of this impressive building was done in the Renaissance period (1523 – 1599) but it still accommodates both cultures in one structure. Truly an impressive feat and symbolic evidence that humanity can co-exist peacefully.
This Mosque-Cathedral artistic wonder was declared a world cultural heritage site in 1984 which heralds Córdoba the city with the most UNESCO sites in the world. They are (in my personal ranking) The Great Mosque (1984), the Historic Quarter (1994), The Festival of the Patios (2012), and the Medina Azahara (2018). As a UNESCO site lover, I feel honored to have visited 3 of them.
Once inside the Mezquita, I was humbled and overwhelmed by the enormity and splendor of this historical building. And although crowded with hundreds of visitors it was still an incredible experience.
Whether it was used as a temple, church, mosque or cathedral is of no importance as it still symbolizes purity and sanctity. The dissension between those protecting the heritage of the mosque and those who want it to be used solely as a cathedral will in all probability continue for years to come. Their strife will never take away the magic of this unique place of worship.
The building consists of a large prayer room filled with stone and red brick columns and symmetrical arches, a courtyard with an ever-refreshing fountain, and of course the orange grove. A walkway and a minaret/bell tower complete the structure. The columns and elevations in the structure each play a role to bring natural light and ventilation into the Mezquita. Arches adorned with gold tesserae contrast the stone and red brick prayer hall beautifully. It is one of the most uniquely renovated buildings I have seen on my travels.
The beauty of the old part of the city, the Juderia de Còrdoba (Jewish quarter) with its labyrinth of narrow streets, the magnificent Mezquita, and the warmth of the Spanish people is forever imprinted in my mind. And with it the sweltering summer nights, pulsing Flamenco music, the scent of orange blossoms in the air, and a bowl of ice-cold salmorejo (a thicker version of a Gazpazo).
They say you can’t buy happiness, but you can go to Spain
and that is pretty much the same thing.
GALLERY
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| Photo credit www.123rf.com |
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| Photo Credit www.123rd.com |
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| Inside the mosque |
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| The old part of town |
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| Mohamed Al-Gafequi was a 12th-century eye surgeon who trained in Cordoba and Baghdad, and specialized in the removal of cataracts. |
