Jo's Space: November 2019

First leg.

CNN recently named the national R62 road between Cape Town and Oudtshoorn the ‘Best Road Trip in the World’ and by doing so attracted thousands of tourists, both local and international to this Western part of South Africa. I concur and frequently journey to the unexpected wayward East on the R62. Bias or not, being proudly South African, I marvel at every big or small accolade awarded to my beloved country and enjoy trekking the roads less traveled.

I have traveled this unusual road many a time and showcasing its blend of eccentric offerings to friends from abroad, is always a wonderful experience. Every time I travel the R62, I discover not only new and sometimes hidden treasures but do I refresh and invigorate my soul. Words and photos can seldom adequately describe the unsurpassed beauty of the R62, but I will attempt with humbleness to share my experiences with you and bring them to life.

After a couple of days exploring Cape Town, it was time to start our road trip. The R62 runs through the Little Karoo and Langkloof Pass. It is also known as the longest wine route in the world and home to many popular and renowned wineries with lush green vineyards as far as the eye can see.

Traveling from Cape Town to Worcester leaves you with two options. Either over or under the Du Toitskloof Mountain in a series of folds and fault-lines concealed by fragrant Cape Flora and Fynbos. The Huguenot Tunnel takes you through the Du Toitskoof Mountain and shortens the distance by approximately 11 kilometers. We, however, opted for the more scenic route via the Du Toitskloof Pass which was built by Italian prisoners of war during World War II. With its breathtaking views of the Paarl Valley, Table Mountain in the distance and proteas blooming roadside, this pass is one of the most spectacular routes in South Africa.

One of my favourite things to do when taking road trips is stopping at farm stalls or ‘padstalle’ as it is known in South Africa. This trip was no exception! The Affie Plaas farm stall near Robertson is the ideal place to stop for refreshments and bathroom visits. This particular farm stall is known for the best Melktert in town; a traditional South African milk tart made and sprinkled with copious amounts of cinnamon. Visitors can marvel at the locally produced pickles, jams, and delightful consumables. This little treasure cove stocks anything from a condom to an elephant and offers more than enough to boost your feel-good factor!

Our first overnight stay was in Montagu, one of my favourite picturesque towns in South Africa. Smaller in size, within 200 kilometers from Cape Town and firmly nestled in the Cogman’s Kloof, this settlement spoils for choice when it comes to holiday accommodation and fun activities.

Although it was declared a health resort in 1936, Montagu has much more to offer than just the hot water springs and land art for which it is famous for. Montagu boasts to be the town with the second-highest number of historic buildings in the Western Cape and offers more than 170 architectural historic buildings dating back as far as 1840. Edwardian, Victorian and Georgian architecture meet in almost every street in Montagu and in particular, Long Street with 14 sites and a charming breakfast spot called the Rambling Rose.

The village also vaunts century-old churches, museums, and historic homes that are still occupied to this day. Art galleries, craft shops, spa-days, restaurants, and road-side coffee shops cater for the discerning and cultivated traveler while rock climbing, 4x4 trails, and mountain biking will satisfy the needs of every outdoor adventurist. Farmers’ markets, stalls with local produce and even a donkey sanctuary a mere 50 kilometers away, will encourage the pickiest traveler to consider a longer stay!

The next stop was Leiwater Dam Birding in Bath Street. This sanctuary is home to 18 species of indigenous birds. According to the local inhabitants, it is frequented by ornithologists from all over the world and a true bird lover’s paradise. Of course, my knowledge of birds is somewhat limited as I can hardly distinguish between a sparrow and a finch, but I enjoyed the Sacred Ibises and cormorants and the beautiful white egrets as they were settling in for the night.

After a typical *Bobotie and *Malva pudding dinner at the Mystic Tin, it was time to get a good night’s rest before the scheduled early morning tractor trip up Langeberg Mountain. The traditional fragrant minced meal and sweet moist pudding served its purpose as I slept like a child.

Through all my trekking over the years I have traveled in or on almost every possible means of transport; buses, cars, bicycles, zip-lines, airplanes, boats, trains, donkeys, horses, camels and even a wheelbarrow or two, but a tractor ride up the mountain was a first for me. The morning breeze was icy and I soon realized that we were not adequately dressed for this excursion hosted by Protea Farm a stone’s throw from Montagu. Although I am not a lover of heights I must confess, the scenes from the top of the mountain were spectacular and the mostly Afrikaans crowd on the tractor absolutely entertaining.

Any adventure that requires an indemnity form before commencement makes me excited and gets the adrenaline pumping. The tractor trip takes you to an altitude of roughly 1500m above sea level, showcasing the most spectacular view of the Koo and Robertson Valleys below. I was reminded of my shivering legs when we noticed the snow on the surrounding mountains, but snow to South Africans is always something to get excited about. Luckily for us, a glass of Muscadel and dried fruit from the region were served when we reached the top of the mountain which made for a spirited conversation all round. Muscadel is not only the oldest grape variety in South Africa but also one of the sweetest hidden treasures of the wine industry. For those of you familiar with this particular wine, will know the effect it has on the human body. Instant body heat and blissful laughter!

The ride up the mountain and back took most of the morning but is highly recommended. After bidding our new-found tractor friends farewell it was time to start our second leg on the R62 journey.

Watch this space..................

* Bobotie is a very traditional Cape Malay dish made with ground mutton or meat of your choice and Malva Pudding is a traditional sweet baked dessert with Dutch origins and served with custard or cream.