I was hesitant to blog about
Santiago de Compostela. Can one do this legendary and world-renowned city
with its great history, authentic ambiance and medieval architecture enough
justice? But then I’m reminded that the story is in the eye of the beholder.
This is my unique experience of this beautiful city….
From the
moment I arrived by train until the day I traveled back on that same train
I was overwhelmingly and profoundly amazed. A city that is not only known
for the almost 800 km pilgrimage to the Tomb of St James, but also for
the majestic Cathedral which is the focal point of the Plaza do
Obradory. This beautiful cathedral was built in 1075 during the reign of
Alfonso VI. Major renovations were in progress at the time of my visit and some
areas were closed to the public. It is believed that the remains of St James
were brought from Jerusalem and buried in the city of Santiago de Compostela.
The
city is the capital of Galicia, Spain and located in the Province of
Coruna. In 1985, the site where the Cathedral is built was declared a UNESCO
world heritage site. This is just one of Spain’s countless world heritage
sites, a testament to the rich culture that the Spanish history embodies.
As far back
as the 9th century, pilgrims traveled this famous route and
today over 20,000 pilgrims annually flock to Portugal and Galicia to traverse this
historical walk. Whether they do it for religious reasons, as part
of a soul-searching process or just for fun, the Camino is popular and a bucket
list item of many! Without a doubt this kind of ‘religion-tourism’certainly
boosts the economy of Santiago, and the whole region for that matter.
The city,
like so many of Galicia’s cities and towns, has a character-filled older part
(Zona Vella) and a vibrant, modern part (Zona Neva) where shopping centers
and retail outlets rub shoulders with trendy tapas bars and chic hotels.
Zona
Vella, with its granite streets, narrow alleys and beautiful Gothic
arches and Romanesque plazas dating back centuries, leaves an impact on
every visitor to this ‘Big Village’as Galicians referred to their
city. I fell in love with the vibrancy of the street cafes, and how the
street musicians and entertainers put their own unique talent on display.
An English
guided tour to the Cathedral’s rooftop is an experience not to be
missed. Although the climb is not for the faint-hearted the view from up
there is worth every effort. A well-informed and witty tour guide provided for
a memorable excursion.
The
highlight of a visit to the Cathedral is of course to experience the swinging
of the Botafumeiro (smoke expeller) ceremony
and a Pilgrim's Mass. The swinging of the Botafumeiro takes place on most
of the religious days on the Catholic calendar e.g. the Epiphany, Easter
Sunday, Christmas and Mary's Assumption, to name but a few. The incense-filled
censer swings from the central dome to the side naves and takes eight
tiraboleiros (bell ringers) to move the bell, which weighs roughly 53 kg. Huge
was my disappointment when the ceremony was not held on the day we found
ourselves in Santiago.
But I did get to experience the daily mass, which takes place at noon and is
attended by hundreds of visitors and pilgrims, both Catholic and non-Catholic
from all over the world. The solemnity of the occasion was palpable and
contrasted with the lavishly-decorated interior of the Cathedral. From the 17th
century Baroque style altar and St James’s tomb, to the impressive Romanesque
art work, statues, silver, gilt and marble all add to the splendor and opulence
of this historically-rich Cathedral.
However,
laying a hand on the 13th century statue of St James, for which late-comers must stand
in line for hours (and feels a bit touristy) it is not to be missed when
visiting the Cathedral. Although I am not a member of the Roman Catholic Church, the moment (and a moment is all you are allowed by the stern guard on duty) I stood in front of the statue caressing the mantel of St James, I softly uttered a universal blessing in honor of all my Catholic friends across the globe. For that moment, it felt like the right thing to do – to
behold a sacred, holy moment.
Santiago has
so much to offer tourists like me or weary pilgrims alike. Although relatively
small compared to cities across the globe, the entertainment is endless. From a
stroll in the park where I misunderstood an offering from a Gypsy lady (to my
embarrassment), to enjoying dishes such as the ever so popular pulpo de
Gallega (octopus), padron peppers, Tarta de Santiago (sweet almond tart) and
churros (deep fried choux dough pastry). The city’s energy by day and night alike
is real and contagious.
After some serious
souvenir shopping, with the Camino symbol (a scallop shell) around my neck and
a berry red Rosary in my bag, an afternoon tea at the Casino Cafe was just what
our sore feet needed. I felt homesick for a while when I discovered Rooibos Tea
(redbush) on their menu. Rooibos tea originates from South Africa
and has gained popularity across the globe. We are cultures and continents
apart and here good old Rooibos tea features on a menu in a Spanish restaurant!
Endless
options of entertainment await visitors after dark in Santiago. The colourful
carnivals and age-old fiestas go on until the early hours of the morning. Choosing
the perfect tapas bar becomes an interesting experience and quite a challenge
as Spain has more bars per capita than anywhere in the world. Bar hopping with total strangers from across the globe
turns out to be the most popular night time activity in this vibrant city.
At this point, however, I will end my recount of my
encounter with Santiago de Compostela, because whatever happens at Al Papatorio (a
very popular tapas bar) and Santiago late at night, stays in Santiago. But I
can quote the words of Richard R Niebuhr which perfectly rings true of me as I
set on my journey: "Pilgrims are persons in
motion -passing through territories not their own - seeking something we might
call completion, or perhaps the word clarity would do as well, a goal to which
only the spirit's compass points the way."
