Jo's Space: November 2018

My first reaction as I walked out on the terrace of Pousada de San Teotonia in Valença, Portugal was to shout "Stop! Hold this moment forever!" It was one of those matchless moments I will treasure for a lifetime. I live above material interests and value aesthetically pleasing and diverse scenery, legendary tales and medieval allegories much more than a glass slipper and a red-carpet event. I marvel at old world charm and stories of yesteryear.

The historical gem that Valença is, nestled on the banks of the slow-flowing Minho River with its centuries’ old fortress, chapels and statues, bustling plazas and a metallic railroad bridge brought a mystifying fascination over me.

Previously known as Contrasta, Valença was declared a city in 1262 and embraces centuries of preserved history, undefeated conquests and bloody wars dating as far back as the time of the Roman Empire.

Although the rooster or Galo de Barcelos is not the official symbol of Portugal it is definitely the most recognised. There are different explanations as to how it became such a popular symbol in the Portuguese culture. It symbolises honesty, integrity and trust - all qualities I value deeply and naturally relate to.

After a refreshing glass of Vermu (Vermouth) and Mediterranean olives at the Pousada de San Teotonia, the fortress was our first stop. Fortaleza de Valença do Minho is a top tourist attraction of this lush green 17^th century city. It is regarded as one of Europe’s key military fortresses and is quoted as being ‘a true legacy of human kind.’

This star-shaped fortress was built in the 13^th century in classic Vauban style and served as a military stronghold during many battlements between Portugal and Spain. The last military forces only left the fortress as recently as 1927.

The Eifel Tower-inspired Ponte International Bridge that connects Spain with Portugal dates back to 1879 and is still in use, although a more modern bridge was built in recent years. While many tourists find it compelling to walk across the bridge to Spain, we opted for a leisurely stroll in this ancient city.

Like so many cities and towns in this part of the world, the heart of Valença hosts historical structures and cobble stone streets whereas the Rua de Mousinho de Albuquerque street in the new part of town is abuzz with activity. High quality yet affordable textiles and curios draw tourists and Spaniards to the flourishing vendors of Valença.

For me, no trip to any town or city is complete without a visit to a cathedral, church or monastery. The baroque style Igreja de Santo Esterado with its near-modern interior, hosts an image of the Baby Jesus being breastfed by his mother, which is considered very unusual for Portuguese art. The southern part of Valença is somewhat quieter and not as tourist-swamped. This is where we came across another rococo (late baroque) style chapel. Capela do Bon Jesus, with the statue of San Teotonio (the first Saint of Portugal) on its doorstep is worthwhile of a visit.

The citizens of Valença are cat lovers, or so it seems. These felines’ favourite hangout place is at the Largo de Santa Maria dos Anjas plaza. They are not out to impress or wield power – just lazing in the midst of a tourist maelstrom and watching the world go by.

As we head back to Spain with our souvenirs and a Vermu glow on the cheeks, leaving behind the land of the brightly coloured roosters, the bacalau and its glorious history, I was mindful of my own individual journey through life. I realised my life’s journey might never take me back to Valença, but I know the place certainly occupies a front seat in my heart.

Despedida Valença!!

GALLERY