Thursday, 5 January 2017

THE PYRAMID OF PORT ELIZABETH

"By my soul, I can neither eat, drink, nor sleep; nor, what's still worse, love any woman in the world but her."   - Samuel Richardson.

The power of love makes men great.

Two pyramids, situated on two different continents, were both erected in commemoration of a loved one.  The first landmark can be found in Port Elizabeth, South Africa, and the other in Porta San Paolo, Italy.  The Piramide di Caio Cestioor (also known as the Pyramid of Cestius) was built between 18 and 12 BC for Gaius Cestius Epulo, who was appointed as Tribune of the Plebs.  Cestio was a wealthy magistrate and a prominent figure in the Septemviri Epolunum, one of the biggest priestly colleges in Rome at the time.

Centuries after Cestio's death a young British woman named Lady Elizabeth Frances, a member of the upper classes in Britain, died in Meerut, India, only 18 months after her marriage.  She was married to Sir Rufane Donkin, acting British Governor.  On the shores of Africa, Elizabeth's saddened husband later built a 10-meter high pyramid, similar to the Piramide di Caio Cestio, to celebrate his love for Elizabeth.

He wrote:  "In the memory of one of the most perfect of human beings who has given her name to the name of the town below."  And so, Port Elizabeth, the once unnamed trader settlement, nestled in Algoa Bay, was given its name.  The Pyramid was declared a National Monument in 1938.  Although he married his second wife, Anna Maria Elliot in 1832, Donkin never recovered from the loss of Elizabeth and committed suicide in 1841.  He was buried with Elizabeth's embalmed heart.

Today Port Elizabeth, with its warm Mediterranean, sub-tropical climate, is known as the Windy City and much loved for its sunshine all year round.  More important, however, to the people of this unique city, is its friendliness, preserved by the local inhabitants.  Perhaps in honor of Lady Donkin?

Many theories exist about the origins of the shape of the pyramid.  It is believed that the sloping sides of the pyramid made it possible for the dead to climb to the sky en live forever, however, I should like to believe that Port Elizabeth's Pyramid represents a landmark, a piece of art that reminds us of the loss of eternal love and the rays of the sun, which this part of the sunshine coast is best known for.

Port Elizabeth also boasts as Africa's Watersport Capital and is one of the few locations on the continent that allows you access to the Big 5.  The list of things to do in this beautiful city is endless.  Although it has 40 kilometers of golden beaches, it is not your typical sun and surf destination.  It offers a vibrant nightlife and an incredible selection of historical and heritage sites frequented by visitors from all over the world.  Some of my personal favourites include:

Route 67, which was launched in 2011, highlights key moments in the life of belated President Nelson Mandela and throughout Apartheid, as well as the accomplishments achieved in establishing the Rainbow Nation.  67 Art pieces project Nelson Mandela's 67 years of public life.  With local and upcoming artists, architects and local communities all come together in a unique display that also resulted in the upliftment of the suburbs within these hubs of art.

Another jewel not to be missed is the lovely old Lighthouse or 'the light that watches over Algoa Bay', as it is known.  It was built in 1851 and still warns the passing seafarers of the dangers of the notorious Thunderbolt Reef.  Many shipwrecks, at the bottom of the ocean, tell the story of just what this reef is capable of and how dangerous it still is.  The HMS Thunderbolt, a wooden paddle sloop of the British Royal Navy, struck the reef in 1847 killing all crew on board.

The lighthouse is situated within the Cape Recife Nature Reserve, which was proclaimed in 1973 and offers a wide variety of activities.  Whether exploring the depths of the ocean or doing a 9 km hiking trail within unique flora, traversing the sand dunes or spending quiet moments in the bird hide, Cape Recife, like the Pyramid of Lady Donkin, never disappoint.

Port Elizabeth, the hidden gem of South Africa, situated in the malaria-free Eastern Cape, should definitely be on every traveler's bucket list.



Pyramid of Cestius
Photo courtesy of atlasobscura.


Pyramid of Lady Donkin


Overlooking Algoa Bay


Overlooking Algoa Bay


Art

Lady Donkin's Memorial Plaque



Art - Donkin Reserve

Cape Recife Lighthouse


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