Jo's Space: December 2015

The food culture of any nation tells us so much about its past as well as its future. Food, like music, plays an integral part in any nation's existence. So, it was a distinct privilege and pleasure to have the knowledgeable counsel of several Namibian locals who shared something of their customs, traditions and ethnic cuisine with me. Helia, Martha, Lina, Anet and Selima are Ovambo women who have a passion for traditions and traditional food and they willingly shared the food secrets of the Ovambo tribe with me. Their capable assistance was invaluable in the writing of this blog.

Namibia, like South Africa, has many different culture groups, each with a rich food history dating back centuries. Living in a desert country necessarily places limits on what can be brought to the dinner table.

The Owambos have nine different tribes of which the Kwanyama group is the largest. They predominantly live in central and northern Namibia as well as in southern Angola, one of Namibia’s neighboring countries.

Eating, as in most cultures, is a social event in the lives of the Ovambo people. The main meal is eaten in the late afternoon or in the evening. Traditionally, the food is positioned in the center of the eating area in the kraal (a traditional African village of huts, typically enclosed by a fence) and the family members sit in a circle, (usually outside) around the prepared food. Food is always eaten with the hands.

Mahangu, (pennisetum glaucum), or manna of the north, as it is called by the locals, is an unrefined pearl millet flour and forms the staple of the Ovambo’s diet. The mahangu is, preferably, cooked in a cast iron pot over an open fire. The size of the pot depends on the number of persons to be fed. When cooked, the oshifima (mahangu porridge) is scooped from the pot and mixed with the rest of the food. Ovambo etiquette requires that only the right hand be used when serving or eating food.

Omboga, (wild spinach) can be found in the wild, growing on the pearl millet fields. It is a green, leafy plant, resembling spinach. Because fridges are not a luxury usually found in the most rural areas of Namibia, several ways of preserving food have been invented. Fresh leaves are dried and pressed together to form a round disk which can easily be stored for use during the months to follow. The dried leaves are called ekaka. It is cooked as an accompaniment and served with onyama (meat) or oshifima (porridge), or beans and nuts.

Many types of greens can be found throughout Africa which provide needed nutrition. Omboga is high in proteins, vitamin A and C and fiber. Hence, this nutritional combination likely explains the low rates of colorectal cancer amongst the tribes that frequently eat omboga.

Omboga is also eaten in the Congo where it is known as fumbo. In the Kavango, which is in the northern part of Namibia, it is known as omutete. Similar greens can also be found in most regions in South Africa where it is called morogo. Traditionally, omboga or ekaka are cooked, braised, or stir-fried with or without onions and drizzled with marula oil. It is a very versatile vegetable and the western world has taken notice of this lovely leafy vegetable. Tomatoes, mushrooms, wine and cheese can be added to enhance the flavor of pasta, rice or any starch.

According to Ovambo tradition, men and women do not share the same eating area. Oshinyanga,(men) sit in a circle and wait for the food to be served by the elugo (women). The latter then gather round the fire, where the food was prepared and eat after the men are served.

Beef, mutton, pork, goat, donkey, tortoise, mopani worms, small bream, chicken and frog are some of the more popular proteins eaten by the Ovambo people. Makalani nuts, beans, sorghum, and melons also are part of the Ovambo diet in one way or another.

Kapana is meat grilled over an open fire. It is popular throughout many parts of Namibia. However, it is not regarded as a true traditional Ovambo food as it is a dish of recent origin. It likely made its first appearance in the open markets. Ovambo people love their bars, eateries, small open markets, shops and stores; perfect places for a tasty grilled meat-snack or meal which accounts for the popularity of kapana.

Oshikundu (a beer-like beverage) is made of mahangu (millet), flour and boiling water to which sugar and sorghum are added. It is best served fresh and icy cold on the day it was made. This popular drink is sold in the open markets and shops and made daily in most households of the Ovambo tribe. Although I was hesitant to taste this drink, it was surprisingly refreshing.

Ombike, also a very popular drink amongst the Ovambos, is made primarily from the makalani nut which grows on the Omulunga tree (a type of palm tree). It tastes much like whiskey. The fruit of the makalani palm takes two years to mature and be ready for use. This is in keeping with the old Ovambo saying: "If you don't have patience you can't make beer."

In the tradition of the Ovambo, sweets or desserts are seldom served after a meal. Fruits and mahangu cakes are, however, eaten as a snack during the day.

My various explorations of food traditions and cultures to date unwaveringly affirm to me how important food is not only for nutritional sustenance but, also in how we interact and socialize with one another. Ovambo food traditions are no different and I am grateful for the insights I’ve been granted.

“Food brings people together on many different levels. It is nourishment of the soul and body; it is truly love.” Giada De Laurentiis
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