Jo's Space: September 2014

It all started with a Gumtree ad that caught my eye. My gap year was far from over and new adventures were waiting to be explored.

Being the adventurous person that I am, or perhaps more gypsy-like as my friends say, it came as no surprise when I bid my family farewell yet again and hit the road early one morning in May. I remember thinking at the time that Cape Town was showing signs of winter and, for those who do not know the Western Cape in winter, it’s cold and wet and miserable.

It was with some amount of anticipation that I started my 1,000+km journey to a small village on the sunshine coast of the Eastern Cape, to take up employment for a couple of months.

Begha is a tiny seaside village situated on the banks of the Birha River, 50 km from Port Alfred, on the road heading towards East London. The community consists mainly of holiday homes and cottages situated in a nature reserve, with rolling sand dunes, endless beaches, indigenous plants, varied bird and wild-life and sunsets that are beautiful, wondrous, even mesmerizing. It is as near to paradise as it comes!

I was welcomed by Babs, my host for the next few months. Of course, it took a couple of ups and downs to find my feet and nestle into my new living situation. But, once Babs and I connected and shared some whiskey and wine, the two of us were on a roll.

Life in Begha goes by slowly. For me, gone were the N1 and N2 and the noisy, congested traffic of Cape Town. Now, no sirens and alarms, no fighting neighbours and barking dogs, no rush to meet a deadline or reach a destination. Begha caters to the soul and the body just naturally smiles for the attention. Yes, the body does very well under the Begha sun and in the Begha surf, as it’s revitalized from within.

Isolated, peaceful, serene and remote are just a few words I can think of to describe this piece of heaven. Or is it paradise? The difference is hardly worth knowing and less so worth distinguishing. Just being so near to nature without the interference of the "outside" world, compels one to just enjoy the moment. And, I had more than several of those to enjoy.

Begha . . .

makes you want to just stand still and listen to your own breathing…

makes you see and appreciate the beauty of earth as it was meant to be ...

makes you realise how hectic the rat race really is...

makes you confront your inner self and take a long, good look...

Living a simple life away from it all or returning to the hustle and bustle of city life and its challenges is one of the topics of conversation you have with yourself.

Begha, being the sort of place that it is, it is also Babs’ home. And, although Begha is "away from it all"’, Babs’ house is like a railway station. People come and go all the time. She has been part of Begha for many years and is not just widely known for her beautiful garden and her extensive knowledge of plants, but also quite popular amongst her friends, family and the locals. Whether they pop in for coffee or linger longer and stay for a while, people are welcome in Bab’s house, where the door is always open and her hands ready to give

I have met so many lovely and interesting people during my stay in Begha:

Lynn and Dave, two of the few permanent residents of Begha. From time to time I had the privilege of taking care of Sparky, their beautiful cat. It was, of course, love at first sight when I stroked his back for the first time.

With Edith and Derrick, just down the road, I took long walks on Begha’s beautiful beach and they showed me the art of picking up oysters. It was a first for me. Being an oyster lover, and only knowing these delicious morsels as something served on ice by a waiter or chef; picking them up seaside amounted to nothing less than moments of pure joy.

Robert and Maureen are amiable neighbours. Robert encouraged me to write and tell the world about Begha, whilst Maureen and I exchanged women talk while strolling leisurely beachside. Thinking back on Robert’s encouraging words about writing, I wonder if Robert could only imagine how much words usually fail me when I need them most.

My list of new friends is long, but I have to mention just a few. Michelle, Laurie, Stacey, Dianne and Steven. Diane B, Lily, Irene and the lovely Lulu and her late husband, Wicus. Jo and her family and Jackie, the art lady, they will all be kept in a little red box near to my heart.

The staff at Leach Pharmacy, Bagman, KNA Stationeries, Vodacom, where Lecinda had to listen and give me advice on my endless internet complaints, Funky Fings, Buco, the hardware store, and a few more. They are all so different than staffs in stores in the big towns and cities. They get to know you personally and know their customers’ names and stories by heart.

Begha has no stores, so a weekly trip to Port Alfred, a 50 km drive, became a weekly highlight. It normally ended with a visit to Lulu who provided us with tea, cakes and dinners to die for, but most of all she showered us with kindness and love. Although she was still mourning the death of her beloved Wicus, it was with a smile and sometimes a tear, that she entertained us.

Virginia, another salt of the earth woman, known for being the best housekeeper in the world, is exactly that. I will truly miss this lovely African lady with the big smile and an even bigger heart.

Cynthia and Peter and dear old Qeba all walked into my life for a couple of months. I will look back and smile when I think of them.

Babs taught me so much. Not only did she patiently guide me through mosaic sessions, showed me the art of making glitter balls, or made slips from her plants, but most of all she taught me some important life lessons. Knitting through the cold hours of winter and cuddled up with cups of homemade soup late at night, are all treasured memories I will take with me on my next journey to wherever that may be

Last, but not least, are Monique and Patch, the two four-legged members of the household. I must admit I am not a dog lover, but the relationship between the three of us was a good one. Patch, the lively one, full of zip and energy, belongs to all who visit Begha. He is jovial, a professional socialite and a true gentleman, protecting his loved ones. Even the local wild buck and playful monkeys were never allowed near the house. Patch acts like a real hero when defending his territory.

Monique, on the other hand, is the old lady with charisma and rheumatism. She moves slowly and gracefully, she eats unhurriedly and takes her old-age pills stylishly. I have a feeling she is a bit of a snob. Mixing with the working class and rowdy holiday visitors is just not her style.

I live by the saying “Nothing is permanent and this too shall pass” so, the time has come to pack my bags, my memories and my boots and see in which direction the wind will take me. I will leave my footprints here in Beautiful Begha, but I am taking back my memories and my soul.

Saludos Begha - Ciao for now.

GALLERY More photos to follow.