The Bright city.

 

Medina al-Zahra, also known as the 'Bright City', is a must-visit destination for archeology enthusiasts. It boasts exceptional preservation and a rich history dating back to the 10th century. Constructed under Caliph Abd ar-Rahman III of the Umayyad dynasty, this ancient city tragically fell victim to destruction during civil unrest and remained abandoned for a millennium. Its rediscovery in the 20th century marked the commencement of thorough excavations.

Nestled in the Guadalquivir valley at the foot of the Sierra Morena mountains, just 8 kilometers outside Córdoba, a city in Andalusia, Spain, lies a remarkably preserved archaeological site. It features buildings, intricate water systems, bridges, roads, and various artifacts unearthed through ongoing excavations.

Medina al-Zahra's designation as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2018 has led to a 40% rise in visitor numbers. Its preservation as a singular Caliphate city subject to ongoing investigation secured its heritage status. Cairo and Baghdad, though similarly Caliphate cities, are inaccessible for restoration due to extensive urbanization.

A notable aspect of the Caliphate city's discovery is its centuries-long seclusion, with the site being used exclusively for livestock grazing between the 11th and 20th centuries.

To date, merely 10% of the city has undergone excavation, with ongoing work in progress. Since 1985, the site, primarily publicly owned, has been managed by a dedicated body responsible for its excavation, protection, conservation, and restoration.

The skillful restoration of two rooms revealed remnants of paintings, columns, and tiled borders in the Corinthian style, rooms that were officially recognized as a National Monument in 1923.

With its wealth of historical and cultural significance, Spain is home to countless heritage sites that provide a window into its intriguing past.

My visit to this unique site left an enduring impression, instilling in me a heightened regard for Spain's cultural treasures and reaffirming the significance of preserving cultural heritage for future generations and its influence on our collective identity.

 

 

A DREAM COME TRUE

The Ferro family has been perfecting the art of clog-making for a century. As a renowned artisan, Elena Ferro and her team specialize in crafting traditional, hand-crafted wooden clogs, leather bags, and many accessories.

This family-owned business, spanning three generations, garnered the prestigious National Craftsmanship Award in 2019. By seamlessly merging innovation with tradition, Eferro's designs have successfully adapted to contemporary tastes while drawing inspiration from nature and wildlife, yielding exceptional creations.

The origins of this esteemed craftsmanship began in a workshop nestled in the picturesque countryside of Merza, Vila de Cruces, Pontevedra, Spain. The panoramic drive to the village was a memorable experience. With its stunning backdrop of mountains and three rivers, this enchanting town deserves a spot on every traveler's must-visit list.

I was instantly drawn to Elena’s exquisite artisanal clogs during my first visit to Spain and was determined to own a pair one day.

Initially designed for wet terrain, these traditional clogs evolved into a contemporary fashion statement. Notably, the alder and/or birchwood soles paired with a body of premium greased cow leather ensure lifetime durability. Locally known as Zocos, they were ubiquitous in Galicia's rural areas until the arrival of modern footwear such as rain and rubber boots.

Eferro’s staff's exceptional hospitality is noteworthy. Visiting them is a delightful experience. Customers are encouraged to explore the factory freely, inquire extensively, and receive personalized shoe fittings and advice.

Despite knowing exactly what I wanted before I entered the outlet, selecting the perfect pair was unexpectedly arduous. The store boasts a vibrant display of clogs, sandals, bags, and leather items making selection a challenging task.

The Eferro brand maintains a significant presence in Galicia's urban centers, showcasing their prominence in northern Spain where I initially stumbled upon them in  Pontevedra, the capital of the Pontevedra province.

Whilst visiting a very popular art fair in a nearby town the following day, the vendors recognized me. I became an instant 'celebrity', all thanks to my beloved, eye-searing purple clogs. It's amazing how fast word spreads about the South African with the 'look-at-me' shoes.

Galicia's wet and cold weather or South Africa's icy winter mornings? These shoes have got it covered. Just don't forget the thick socks. Luckily the kind lady thoughtfully provided a pair of Eferro socks to keep things comfortable. And because I couldn't resist, I added one of their gorgeous wooden and leather handbag creations to my shopping basket.

Who knows, I might just be the first  South African Eferro clog enthusiast, inspiring others to confidently showcase their personal style. But who's counting? Unlike me, people don’t always reveal their nationality upon purchase.

Why purple you may ask. Purple is treated as the colour of royalty and the elite. It symbolizes spirituality, wisdom, bravery, and dignity. 

                               "If I ever let my head down it will be to admire my shoes."

  Gallery

Photo credit  https://corporacionhijosderivera.com

THE SOUNDS AND THE SCENTS OF SEVILLE

The storied Guadalquivir River, affectionately known as 'The Big River,' is steeped in a history marked by numerous conflicts and invasions. It remains Spain's most significant navigable waterway to this day.           

Seville, situated about 80 kilometers from the coast, played host to the historic departure of Fernando de Magellan's groundbreaking global voyage in 1519, which concluded triumphantly in 1522. The river now serves as a thriving destination for international tourists, who enjoy boat tours, cruises, and an array of water sports activities, including rowing and canoeing competitions. Notwithstanding its reputation as 'the Beach of Seville,' the river's pollution levels regretfully prohibit swimming.

Once dubbed 'The city where the heart of the world beats,' Seville retains its unique charm, seamlessly integrating its complex history, cultural traditions, and contemporary influences.

Our tour commenced with a relaxing evening drink at a street café, a scenic river walk at sunset, and an exploration of the iconic Torre de Oro, a 13th-century structure on the Guadalquivir River. Initially constructed as a prison, this landmark has endured earthquakes and demolition threats, adapting into a fortress, chapel, warehouse, and office space before its 1931 restoration and recognition as a historic artistic monument.

Seville's distinctive character was immediately apparent, with Torre de Oro and Giralda standing as testaments to its rich history. The city's allure can be attributed to its vibrant flamenco scene, breathtaking architecture, and cultural traditions, including bullfighting. My brief visit enabled me to sample the city's diverse experiences. 

Notably, Seville holds the record for Europe's highest recorded temperature, a scorching 50C in 1881. I had the privilege of visiting esteemed landmarks such as the Cathedral, Hospital de los Venerables, Archivo de Indias, and Palacio de San Telmo. Like many Spanish cities, Seville seamlessly blends old and new. Exploring the picturesque Santa Cruz, or Jewish Quarter, revealed charming 17th-century dwellings and ornate ironwork. Unfortunately, it's popularity has given rise to overtourism, compromising the quality of life for residents and their connection to historic spaces.

Spain's cities were largely founded and ruled by the Romans, but I find the mythological account of Seville's origins, attributed to Hercules, son of Zeus, particularly compelling. This legendary figure's exceptional strength, courage, and noble nature have indelibly shaped the city's character. Seville's harmonious fusion of myth and reality is distinctive. A memorable aspect of my Spanish sojourn was discovering Plaza de Espana, situated in Maria Luisa Park. Renowned as Europe's most spectacular and the world's second most spectacular monument by TripAdvisor users, its construction spanned 15 years from 1929, engaging thousands of workers. The complex's impressive features include an oval-shaped square, majestic architecture, a 500-meter canal, ornate Baroque towers, and 48 intricately tiled alcoves.

The Plaza del Triunfo and Seville Cathedral are indispensable to any Seville itinerary. Nonetheless, ascending the 105m Giralda bell tower is the true pièce de résistance. Although the climb is relatively manageable, its demands on stamina are significant, as fellow climbers' exertions attest. The spectacular views from the summit, however, justify every step. Comfortable footwear, determination, and hydration are crucial for navigating the 35 levels of ramps and stairs. While there's no rush, the steady influx of tourists can compromise individual pacing. 

Beyond its breathtaking architecture, Seville captivates with its diverse fragrances – lavender, rosemary, bergamot, lemon, and, most notably, oranges from the numerous Citrus Aurantium. Sadly, these oranges are too bitter for raw consumption. 

Seville the place  where I discovered the extraordinary in ordinary moments.

G